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> Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Arete
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Colin Abbott, Graeme Dingle & Noel Sissons |
Page Views: | 1,044 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Cameron Fraser on Sep 4, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Cameron Fraser |
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Access Issue: Parking at Mangetepopo limited to 4 hours, no overnight
Details
As at 2018 people are only allowed to park at Mangatepopo carpark for 4 hours maximum and can not park there overnight. Climbers can get a permit allowing them to park for longer (up to 48 hrs). This permit is only obtainable by visiting the DOC office in Whakapapa in person, and is currently only available to members of NZAC or FMC. Ring the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre for more information (+64 7 892 3729).
Description
The classic climb of the valley. If you climb only one route at Mangatepopo, it really ought to be this one. Start from the platform at very front toe of the buttress. A better alternative to the last pitch may be to finish via one of the routes on the Upper Tier.
Pitch 1
Climb directly up hand and fist cracks to a spike of rock. Then make a delicate move left across the slab into a groove, which can be climbed easily to a large belay ledge.
Pitch 2
Climb leftwards up the easy-angled buttress until you are standing on a ledge beneath a slightly overhanging corner. Climb straight up this corner (crux) to easy ground above and a belay ledge. It is possible to do variations either to the left or the right (easiest) of this corner, if you have difficulties.
Pitch 3
Run it out up the chossy gully to the top. Optional third pitches to the right, 5.7 then 5.10, if you are looking for more of a challenge.
Descent
Can walk off the back for the descent. Hike directly up the ridge then head climbers left to hike down the gully.
Pitch 1
Climb directly up hand and fist cracks to a spike of rock. Then make a delicate move left across the slab into a groove, which can be climbed easily to a large belay ledge.
Pitch 2
Climb leftwards up the easy-angled buttress until you are standing on a ledge beneath a slightly overhanging corner. Climb straight up this corner (crux) to easy ground above and a belay ledge. It is possible to do variations either to the left or the right (easiest) of this corner, if you have difficulties.
Pitch 3
Run it out up the chossy gully to the top. Optional third pitches to the right, 5.7 then 5.10, if you are looking for more of a challenge.
Descent
Can walk off the back for the descent. Hike directly up the ridge then head climbers left to hike down the gully.
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