|Stately Pleasure Dome
The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!
The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).
Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.
Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.
First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.
Yay for button heads!
Tristan sunbathing at the top of pitch 2 of Boltwa...
Frank Baker leading the Boltway
Tristan cleaning pitch 1
Nick on the boltway
View from the top, with Half Dome on far left
Aug 17, 2010
Too many bolts.
From: New Paltz
Aug 13, 2011
Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route?
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 15, 2011
Regarding, "Kudos to the FA for understanding the value in having a safe lead for mere mortals who want to enjoy a serene setting and some Tuolumne face climbing, at the same time."
Boltway is a retrobolt of Eunuch. So, I guess you can't thank the first ascentionist. As I recall, there is one old rusty bolt on Boltway and that is the lone bolt from the original Eunuch. The same guy who retrobolted Eunuch bolted a line next to West Country that was promptly chopped.
As far as the 10 pitch, it's well protected as I recall although perhaps not as generously bolted.
Jun 24, 2013
I lead the 10 finish a few years ago, and the bolt was near my waist on the crux move. The crux I thought was very well bolted - and then after that, head to the crack, with gear placements.
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake.