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 ADVANCED
Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
West Country T 

Boltway 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Marty Steiger, 7/92
Page Views: 3,019
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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View from the top, with Half Dome on far left

Description 

The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!

Location 

The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).

Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.

Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.

Protection 

First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.


Photos of Boltway Slideshow Add Photo
Tristan cleaning  pitch 1
Tristan cleaning pitch 1
Yay for button heads!
Yay for button heads!
Pitch 2 of Boltway.  Alfred Kwok up into the easie...
Pitch 2 of Boltway. Alfred Kwok up into the easie...
Frank Baker leading the Boltway
Frank Baker leading the Boltway
Tristan sunbathing at the top of pitch 2 of Boltwa...
Tristan sunbathing at the top of pitch 2 of Boltwa...
Nick on the boltway
Nick on the boltway
First Lead. Got have sticky fingers.
First Lead. Got have sticky fingers.

Comments on Boltway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Aug 17, 2010

Too many bolts.
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Aug 13, 2011

Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 15, 2011

Regarding, "Kudos to the FA for understanding the value in having a safe lead for mere mortals who want to enjoy a serene setting and some Tuolumne face climbing, at the same time."

Boltway is a retrobolt of Eunuch. So, I guess you can't thank the first ascentionist. As I recall, there is one old rusty bolt on Boltway and that is the lone bolt from the original Eunuch. The same guy who retrobolted Eunuch bolted a line next to West Country that was promptly chopped.

As far as the 10 pitch, it's well protected as I recall although perhaps not as generously bolted.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
Jun 24, 2013

I lead the 10 finish a few years ago, and the bolt was near my waist on the crux move. The crux I thought was very well bolted - and then after that, head to the crack, with gear placements.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake.