Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Marty Steiger, 7/92
Page Views: 8,218 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!

Location Suggest change

The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).

DESCENT:  Either walk off down and left staying under the headwall until it seems reasonable to cut down or follow a series of raps to a big sandy ledge.

RAP DESCENT:  Head west and beneath the headwall where you'll find a small tree. There is a rap station 4’ to 5’ to climber’s right of the tree.  Please use instead of tree. Using two 60 meter ropes, rap down under the headwall, past a short vertical section to a rap station that is discreetly tucked up under the headwall.  (hard to see until you're right on it)  From here rap straight down to the anchor at the top of Jabberwalky.  (at the top of a small arch feature, this anchor is also hard to see until you're right on it.)  From here - a short rap to a station and then a 60m rap lead down Aoxomoxoa to the big sandy ledge.

The rap is highly suggested if climbing with children or not familiar with Tuolumne friction.

Protection Suggest change

First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ two quick links

Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.

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