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Bolts, Bucks, & Black Lung

Original Post
Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 8,821

So there are some changes recently taking place in the manufacturing of bolts. Because I place a few and am interested in "best practices", I came up with these questions hoping for insight:

1) Should I just resign myself to always using 1/2" because 3/8th" is hard to find and not always UIAA? Even though that means more battery, weight to haul, and time drilling on small scary stances? It also "appears" to be overkill in good rock. Thoughts?

2) I like the concept of the Legacy Bolt but:
a) Most of us are not rich
b) Camo. paint is not working well on stainless
Thoughts?

3) Am I foolish for mixing metals in a desert environment with hangers and bolts? Wet places, I get it, but are there studies showing degradation of overall bolt integrity greater than that of the often soft rock in these dryer climes?

4) Cobras have pluses and minuses. What is there long term "success" rate?

5) Are there short or long term advantages to washers?

6) Good cheap source for quality hardware?

7) Instead of a blow bulb, I use a tube and find it cleans holes and edges better. But I have also found after a long drilling summer, fungus growing in the moist tube. Anybody know if bolters moist lungs also have risk of infection? I can run a bleach solution through the tube, not so much my lungs.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

For 2b, paint, maybe ask a specialized auto paint store (the sort of place that would be able to mix and package custom spray paint colors, for example).

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Simple thought about the tube. Last time I bought plastic tubing for blowing holes, it came in a roll of 20 or 30 feet. I needed 2. I think the package cost upwards of $5.

Seems to me that if you're worried, you can cut a new length every couple days/weeks/whatever.

Also, think about flow, if you inhale then put your mouth around the tube, you're only blowing spores out. It shouldn't be an issue unless you're sucking through the tube. Don't suck through the tube.

Finally, it's probably pretty harmless mold.

So yeah, you're going to die.

Edited to add, silicosis is a real thing. If you're too close and personal with your holes and you drill a lot of them, it could theoretically happen. This is scarring of your lungs due to irritation from rock dust, nothing to do with mold.

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 8,821

I understand the point of not inhaling. If you drill a bit you inevitably breath in some dust, on some days, on some bolts. Perhaps a few lichen spores as well. Was just wondering if there was any information out there on "cragger lung"

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Are you drilling on lead?
I'm personally changing to all Glue in bolts, but that's even more work and time if that's what you're worried about. 1/2" SS wedges are good, and you can get them for $1.84 each, and SS hangers for around $2.
As far as mixing metals, the results are the same, just takes longer in the desert.
Cobras aren't SS, and are only 9-12kn depending on the length. (In 3/8", and if you're going 1/2, might as well as get SS wedges as they cost the same and last far, far longer).
That's all I've got.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

The thing about mixing metals is this - the "more active metal" will corrode. The less active will not. So if you put a plated hanger on a SS bolt, the hanger will rust but the bolt will be fine. Don't do the opposite - that's the problem issue.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

A disadvantage of blowing through tubing instead of a blow bulb or pump is that you breath quickly builds up condensation in the tube, which can then make a slurry in the hole.

Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,275

Use a small bike pump and make a bigger better 'blow bulb'. should shoot enough air to clean everything to your liking

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

A can of Dust Off works great. No moisture.

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 8,821

So how does a bike pump work? A bulb or tube uses only one hand, a pump uses two?

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I have seen plenty of corroded plated bolts in the desert. Red Rocks has hundreds if not thousands. If going with stainless simply means less routes, I would be 100% fine with that. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right, especially with wedge bolts because those things are a PITA to remove when the time comes.

As others have said, you can get a 1/2" wedge bolt and hanger for $6ish, although you said desert so I assume soft sandstone, in which case that wont work. Short wedges, even in 1/2", are not suited for soft rock.

I agree with using the keyboard cleaner to clean the holes, although I would say it's less important with expansion bolts than glueins. If you're talking about expansion bolts, you dont really "need" compressed air.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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