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Feb 11, 2014
Chris Vinson wrote:
Nicelegs i bet you had the older ones that didn't have a cleaning bushing yet?


I used 3/8" X 1 1/4" mild steel weak ass sleeve bolts. At a few cents each and to only be used for a few days, they worked. The cave was close to horizontal for nearly 40 feet and almost always steeper than 45. I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling. There were a couple key spots where I could tie a beefy thread or a section of harder rock where I'd put a powers. It was still a bit terrifying calculating the swing potential if those bolts blew.


In all, only one blew and I didn't swing since my hook was in contact when it happened.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
38 points
Feb 11, 2014
nicelegs wrote:
I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling.


Sweet. What you described is basically how we've been bolting roofs on lead, with 1/2" RBs instead of plated bolts. Patch the holes and it leaves virtually nothing other than some camo'd putty in the cliff.

Check out the rack.


Rock Climbing Photo: bolting rack
bolting rack
Chris Vinson
Joined Jul 9, 2012
67 points
Sep 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bolt porn
Has anyone used the hilti or powers screw type bolts? I've heard they are frequently used in the stunt industry for high angle rigging.


Essentially they screw into rock like a drywall screw screws into wood. If removal is necessary, you just screw them right out. Nothing broken and nothing left in the hole.


I had good luck getting them into block at my house with a power drill but no luck getting them into hard quartzite on a cliff with a socket wrench. A lightweight mpact driver may Send them into hard stone. I placed one at the hilti store with one and it went in like butter. . . No wrench no hammer.

Any thoughts or experience with the hilti kh-ez or the powers wedge-bolt+
bus driver
Joined Aug 16, 2009
653 points
Sep 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...
bus driver wrote:
Has anyone used the hilti or powers screw type bolts? I've heard they are frequently used in the stunt industry for high angle rigging. Essentially they screw into rock like a drywall screw screws into wood. If removal is necessary, you just screw them right out. Nothing broken and nothing left in the hole. I had god luck getting them into block at my house with a power drill but no luck getting them into hard quartzite on a cliff with a socket wrench. An impact drivers solve this. I used one and set them very quickly at the hilti store. Any thoughts or experience with the hilti kh-ez or the powers wedge-bolt+


Are you trying to use them as a temporary/removable bolt?
Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
8,425 points
Sep 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bolt porn
Not necessarily only for temporary placements. With all the grief about using wedge anchors because they cannot be replaced using the same hole, these seem to solve that problem. bus driver
Joined Aug 16, 2009
653 points
Sep 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: gg
bus driver wrote:
Not necessarily only for temporary placements. With all the grief about using wedge anchors because they cannot be replaced using the same hole, these seem to solve that problem.


Wedge bolts can be removed cleanly about 90% of the time with the right tools and technique. They still are a pretty crappy bolt compared to a 5-piece in regards to the surface area doing the holding.
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
990 points
Sep 3, 2015
bus driver,
Concrete screws are terribly inadequate for climbing purposes. The applications are for hanging gutters and electrical conduit onto concrete. Maybe for a shelf bracket. Certainly not for critical applications.
ClimbBaja
Joined Nov 20, 2009
20 points
Administrator
Sep 3, 2015
ClimbBaja wrote:
bus driver, Concrete screws are terribly inadequate for climbing purposes. The applications are for hanging gutters and electrical conduit onto concrete. Maybe for a shelf bracket. Certainly not for critical applications.

I agree, I would never use the Wedge Bolt+ for critical applications. I use them around the house, and if they start to unscrew, even slightly, they can pull quite easily. With the back-and-fourth motion that is easily generated with bolt hangers, the WB+ could come unscrewed quite easily.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
978 points
Sep 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
support climbers! buy Jim Titt's stuff eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
354 points


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