Bolting The Molting
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Hagen sending the route for the first time, in the...
Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.
The rating on this one is highly dependent on the climber's stature. Shorter and much taller climbers will find the 12a rating spot on while those in the sweet spot of height will find it easier for the grade.
Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds out left past the bulge above and the anchors.
The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the way of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The lowering climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.
Four bolts to a bolts/chain anchor with lowering biners.
Starts 5 feet to the right of The Balance of Power.
By Heath Bailey
Apr 1, 2013
Cool route with a fun and bouldery beginning, not unlike the nature of the 5.11 routes to its left. Definitely a nice addition to the cliff.
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I actually thought this was a good route. The start is vicious! Then hero climbing for 20 feet to the anchors!