Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This excellent finish to Touch 'N' Go breaks off right at the ledge at half height and ascends the smooth face to the right of the Touch 'N' Go's upper section. Start as for Touch 'N' Go, going up and left below the initial overhang and straight up a right facing corner into a slot that turn into a nice finger crack to a ledge. this climbing is no harder than 5.8 and is very accepting of gear. Bolting for Glory goes up and right from the ledge.
The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.
The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).
Bring a standard rack for the first half of Touch 'N' Go, and then for the Bolting for Glory finish you will need 4 quickdraws (4 bolts) and several standard length runners for a slung hole and the bolt anchors.
Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts.
This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge.
This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning.
Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins.
By Bo Johnston Oct 17, 2005 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm...
By Eric Goltz From: Boulder, CO Nov 19, 2005 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 3, 2007 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating if it is a warm day. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself.
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado Jun 7, 2007 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Sep 9, 2007 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route.
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Oct 14, 2007 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun.
By mtoensing From: Boulder May 1, 2012 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
This route consists of 4 SMC bolts. I think that the hardware could be upgraded and should be upgraded.
Plated 5-piece Powers with SS hangers. Will go back up there and replace the PS with SS sometime in 2013. It sounds like the PS/SS mix should have a pretty long lifetime, but I'd rather get it right sooner.