Bolting for Glory 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Andrea Azoff and Richard Rossiter, 1988 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 4 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Kristo torgersen on May 15, 2001 |
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Bob Siegrist clips the 4th bolt on Bolting For Glo...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This excellent finish to Touch 'N' Go breaks off right at the ledge at half height and ascends the smooth face to the right of the Touch 'N' Go's upper section. Start as for Touch 'N' Go, going up and left below the initial overhang and straight up a right facing corner into a slot that turn into a nice finger crack to a ledge. this climbing is no harder than 5.8 and is very accepting of gear. Bolting for Glory goes up and right from the ledge.
The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.
The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).
Protection Bring a standard rack for the first half of Touch 'N' Go, and then for the Bolting for Glory finish you will need 4 quickdraws (4 bolts) and several standard length runners for a slung hole and the bolt anchors.
Photo and belay by Joey Thompson...he can
multita...
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Eldorado Canyon. Isaac Therneau on Bolting for Glo...
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| Comments on Bolting for Glory |
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 7, 2002
| The holds are getting slicker as the years go by.... |
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Sep 19, 2002
rating: 5.10a
| A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure.
The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt. |
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2003
| Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts. |
By Ashleigh Bilodeaux
Jun 10, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge. |
By Chris Klinga
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning. |
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| Yeah, the first hanger is still loose but felt safe nonetheless. Really nice pitch and recommended for variety after P1 of Touch and Go. |
By Michael Amato
Nov 5, 2004
| Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins. |
By Bo Johnston
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm... |
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating if it is a warm day. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself. |
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Jun 7, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck. |
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route. |
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun. |
By Matt Toensing
From: Boulder
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.9
| This route consists of 4 SMC bolts. I think that the hardware could be upgraded and should be upgraded. |
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
May 1, 2012
| Matt, please feel free to submit an app to the Park and replace those old bolts. The system relies on people like you to get those bolts upgraded, and the routes that could use it are endless. |
By Mike McHugh
Jan 7, 2013
| Hardware replaced 6/14/2012 - 4.75" x 0.5" Powers 5-piece + Fixe hangers. Go git 'r done. |
By Mike McHugh
Jan 7, 2013
| Plated 5-piece Powers with SS hangers. Will go back up there and replace the PS with SS sometime in 2013. It sounds like the PS/SS mix should have a pretty long lifetime, but I'd rather get it right sooner. |
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