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Bolting "ethics"



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By Unassigned User
Dec 17, 2012

"Kenny Allen------------------------------------
I feel it should be noted that joe healy is NOT an official spokesperson for climbing at beacon rock... i do not want to seem defamatory toward him in any way, but he speaks only for himself and frequently acts without consulting any of the regulars who climb at beacon on a daily basis during the busiest climbing months.
-----------------------------------------------"

thank you for moving away from CT please do not come back.


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By ed esmond
Dec 18, 2012

Have you noticed how Kenny Nichols and his insanity becomes more "admirable" and his apologists more vocal the farther away from Connecticut (and the rest of New England) they are?

A quick look at this and the other recent "bolt ct" thread show it's climbers from far away Oregon, California, and that epi-center of climbing, Wisconsin who continue to think Nichols' approach to climbing is "the way."

Not surprisingly, the climbers from New England, who've dealt with him for years and years and years, see it a little differently...

One of the long distance supporters (who's personal exposure to Nichols was 2 years worth of climbing with him, many decades ago....) wants to make sure that "the whole picture or both sides of the story," is told.

Here's the "whole picture:" Nichols unilaterally decided for everyone in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New York and anywhere else he could drive to in a day, what climbing should be....

Kenny was definitely a "whole picture" sort of guy... The "whole picture" was "do it my way, or I'll chop." Keep in mind the "chopping" wasn't just removing the offending bolts and returning the rock to it's natural state. In Massachusetts, it almost always involved swinging a heavy hammer and smashing things.

Nichols' "side of the story" is that he didn't give a rat's behind about "the other side of the story."

Some may say "I agree with his philosophy but not his actions." Which is all very nice, except after all these years, his "actions" have become his "philosophy..." It isn't about bolting, but more about "Do it my way or I will punish you...."

From the other side of the country, it may be hard to see that; but, from right next door, it's pretty obvious.

Those of us, who haven't had the luxury of distance from Nichols and his wackiness over the years, are tired of him and his bs. We'd just like to move on...

It's 2012: sport climbing is not a crime. A few bolts on some scrappy cliffs in suburban Connecticut won't be the end of Western Civilization.

Really...

respectfully,

Ed E

ps. A quick question for the guy from Wisconsin, who lead the 5.11x on "tied down hooks:" How'd that go? Was it everything you imagined it would be? Think it will catch on, maybe be the "future of free climbing?" How many times did you tr that route before trying it on hooks?


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By Unassigned User
Dec 18, 2012

you are 100% spot on with that post Ed.

Thank you


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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Dec 20, 2012

CaptainMo wrote:
Dunno but here is Jim Lawyer's page on the climb... notice the title of the window when you load the page... might be some insight.


I know this is off topic (and refers to a comment on page 12), but I thought I would clarify for CaptianMo regarding the title of the referenced web page -- it is in error. The title ("Shitty Choss Pile from Hell") refers to the route "Weekend Warrior" at the Upper Washbowl (Adirondacks), the upper pitches of which are...well...shitty.

The route "Creation of the World" is quite to the contrary -- stellar. As I understand, one of KN's criteria for placing bolts is that they be placed on lead from natural stances (i.e., not from aid). He did just this on Creation of the World, the natural stance being the ground. Incidentally, this is the only bolt he placed in the Adirondacks. (Doesn't quite make up for the hundreds he chopped.)


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