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Bolting at the Choss Garden
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By Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 26, 2014

I've heard a group is going up to the Choss Garden this weekend to do some re-bolting, etc.

First off - thanks to whomever you guys are that are helping to upgrade the hardware up there! Are you all just replacing bolts, or adding some new anchors that actually make sense on some of those lines?

If you don't mind posting the day and time you'll all be up there that would be appreciated. I have a group that was planning on working some of the .12's up there, but we certainly don't want to be in the way of the upgrade efforts.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 26, 2014

Mark Lewis wrote:
Are you all just replacing bolts, or adding some new anchors that actually make sense on some of those lines?

What do you mean by adding new anchors that make sense?
Very few of the bolts need replacement. Some/most the anchors do.


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By Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 26, 2014

Boissal wrote:
What do you mean by adding new anchors that make sense? Very few of the bolts need replacement. Some/most the anchors do.


Many of the bolts were replaced last year, which is awesome.

'Some/most the anchors do.' - that's exactly why I made the comment about upgrading the anchors...


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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Mar 26, 2014
adf

clay posted on my bolting thread that they were heading up the first weekend in april.

Boissal, I personally would enjoy some of the bolts on the 11's there replaced, as they seem old, but I agree the anchors are the biggest concern.

I think Mark may be referring to some of the routes only having one bolt for an anchor in reference to "making sense"?


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 26, 2014

Spencer Weiler wrote:
Boissal, I personally would enjoy some of the bolts on the 11's there replaced, as they seem old, but I agree the anchors are the biggest concern. I think Mark may be referring to some of the routes only having one bolt for an anchor in reference to "making sense"?

Agreed, there are few button heads here and there which aren't all that inspiring. Same goes for the pins, they both look fine but I'm not too psyched on catching air on them...
As far as the single bolts anchors, the routes go to the top and the "headwall" is really good - except on DOF which has a chossy ending. Chains extending over the lip would make every one of the lines OK to lower from and extend them with fun climbing. The anchor on top of Daisy/Touchy Subject is a great example of that (except it's ready to pop out).


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 26, 2014

Also, the rebolting won't be happening this weekend, probably next.


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By mikewhite
Mar 26, 2014
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen.
We will be doing glue in bolts, so some of the routes may be closed for a couple days while the glue cures. Tags with dates will be left on the routes affected.

I apologize for any inconvenience this may bring.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 26, 2014

SHAME ON MIKE WHITE FOR INCONVENIENCING THE PEOPLE

I've taken the liberty to steal Todd H's picture and update it with the route extensions so we can maybe identify the bolts/anchors which are in need of TLC.

Bolts
Bolts


The circled anchor is shared by the extension to Daisy/Touchy Subject. It's a new anchor with chain and stacked washers. They're bent and the chains are ready to pop out. It definitely needs to be fixed, I think that's the anchor which scared Ben's pants off. The rock around it quite broken but there are solid chunks. The chains dangle over the lip which is ideal.

I've never seen the shared anchor for 8, 9 and 11. It's not as far to the left as it's drawn, I've lowered someone from that anchor and he didn't complain (he has good choss tolerance so maybe the anchor needs an update). It works fine for lowering off route 11 (and 9 I assume). For route 8 it might put the rope in a sharp crack. Route 8 can be finished out left though.

If people want to keep lowering from the single last bolt of routes 9 and 11 it's their problem; there's an anchor above those single bolts and the climbing isn't X to get there so there's no reason to stop. I certainly would be very much against adding 2 anchors there or even a shared one. Go to the top!

One of the bolts from the intermediate anchor of 7 is an old buttonhead/SMC hanger combo, doesn't look bad. The other bolt is fine. If people insist on skipping the best part of the route and lowering from there they can use the in-situ biners to lower from. Until I booty them that is. Go to the top!

The anchors for route 2 are fine and setup well for lowering. Someone could probably disagree though, they're certainly not the newest and shiniest...

Both pins (on routes 2 and 8) seem fine. The one on 8 is kinda buried and it's damn near impossible to get the biner in there while on lead. I've had to skip it before which is fine if you go left on the new extension (you can clip a bomber bolt a couple feet higher).

That's all I have off the top of my head.


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By user id
Mar 26, 2014
DUDE! Your ankles....

mikewhite wrote:
Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen. We will be doing glue in bolts, so some of the routes may be closed for a couple days while the glue cures. Tags with dates will be left on the routes affected. I apologize for any inconvenience this may bring.

A couple of days to cure?
What are you using? JB Weld?


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By Brian in SLC
Mar 27, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

user id wrote:
A couple of days to cure? What are you using? JB Weld?


Some of the glue systems require 72 hours to cure at 5 degree C.

Note the high/low temp's this weekend range from 34-58F. Cold=longer cure times.

Mike, what glue? Hilti or Powers?


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By Ben Folsom
Mar 27, 2014
Rosco, A fine animal.

Yeah, the bent washers with chains ready to pop off of the bolts is one of the anchors that scared me shitless. The original/intermediate anchor on touchy subject has a 5/16" buttonhead spinner, and the other bolt is in a 4 inch by 4 inch loose block that vibrates when I hit my knuckles on it. I know Boissal wants all the lower anchors gone, which would be fine with me if the bolting job above there was any good, but those extensions are kind of fucked up. With anchors in places that make sense, and with good hardware, this would be a really nice wall. There is a great place for an anchor that makes sense on Depth of Field... instead of two bolts 4 feet apart horizontally with one biner on each???? WTF!

Brian, I believe we will be using Hilti glue. That is what Mike told me anyway. We wanted to do this a while ago, but have been waiting for it to warm up.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 27, 2014

Is your concern on the extensions the anchor itself or do you think the 3 new bolts are also sketch?
Again, DOF should top out, which is hypocritical of me to say since I lowered off the single bolt...
I'm fine with intermediate anchors on that one though, the upper section seems much dirtier and easier and I can understand skipping it. The other 2 lines have better climbing on top in the part which used to be ignored. That seems like a waste.


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By Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 27, 2014

mikewhite wrote:
Mark we will post on this thread and let you know when it's going to happen. We will be doing glue in bolts, so some of the routes may be closed for a couple days while the glue cures. Tags with dates will be left on the routes affected. I apologize for any inconvenience this may bring.


Thanks Mike for the head's up. Glue-in's will be awesome - much appreciation to you guys for upgrading the hardware at this crag!


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By Ben Folsom
Mar 27, 2014
Rosco, A fine animal.

I agree with what you are saying. My main concern is mainly the anchors.


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By mikewhite
Mar 27, 2014
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Hilti glue Brian.
Hence the couple days just to be safe.
You should come bro!!


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Mar 27, 2014
The route in it's entirety.

Thanks for the service you guys. Still haven't visited the Choss Garden, but now after this I've got no excuse.


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By jonathan knight
Mar 27, 2014
Kessler Cairn

Since you guys are planning on using Hilti, take a look at the newer HY 200 A/R products. HY 200 R cures a nice brown that will match nicely at the Choss Garden and it will be cured in 1-2 hours depending how cold it is. HY 200 A has an accelerated cure and ends up gray. Both of these work well in low temperatures down to 15 F. The RE 500 SD which would take around a day to cure is great especially in wet holes or even underwater, but it's red and it's rated for installation temps above 40 F. I think it is overkill for this application, and it is easy to end up with a red mess around the anchor.

These alternatives also use different cassettes in the Hilti glue gun. Oh, and if you are using glue you've had for a while, be sure to check the expiration dates on the cartridge.

Good luck up there, and kudos for the effort!


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By mikewhite
Mar 27, 2014
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

jonathan knight wrote:
I think it is overkill for this application, and it is easy to end up with a red mess around the anchor.



Yeah I was kinda looking for overkill. I talked to the hilti reps and they recommended the re 500 along with the asca. Planning on using duct tape around the holes and lots of paper towels there won't be any mess. Using fixe and wave bolts.



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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Mar 27, 2014
Me scaring years off my mom's life

You have a day picked out yet? If I'm in town, I'll come haul some crap up there.


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By tenesmus
Mar 28, 2014

I think removing the middle anchors is a bad idea. There aren't very many warmups on this wall and those anchors are often the best place to stop. The extensions are just that: extensions to established lines so let them stay that way.

Mostly though, my wife just told me we our kids are home for Spring Break all week and she's making me take the kids somewhere very far away from her next weekend. I can help prep after work one day this week.


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By Ben Folsom
Mar 28, 2014
Rosco, A fine animal.

I agree with Tenys last comment. The climbing and the bolting isn't that great on those extensions. Not that the bolts are bad, but they are super hard to clip, and way out of reach from the natural stances if you are only 5'9". I think the lower anchors should stay(and be updated). From what I heard, the crag was originally equipped in only two days, right before the Ruckman guide first came out. It was called the choss garden because it wasn't completely finished, and the routes had not been cleaned too much. Not too many of the anchors make any sense where they are, and quite a few of them are either bad hardware or in poor, shattered rock. I've looked at all the right side routes with Lance, and have a bit of a plan.


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By mikewhite
Mar 28, 2014
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Plans have changed, I will be working that weekend.


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