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All Mixed Up T,S 
Apotheosis Denied S 
Beware the Bear S 
Boltergeist S 
Bourbon and Bluegrass T 
Bushwhacked T 
Call of the Wild T 
Cruisin' for a Bruisin' S 
Dance of the Druids S 
Earthsurfer S 
International Route of Pancakes S 
Mantle Peace S 
Moots Madness S 
Old School T 
Pre-emptive Strike S 
Shock and Awe T 
Special K S 

Boltergeist 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Yates, Rick Weber - 2004
Page Views: 5,837
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 24, 2009  with updates from Douglas97

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (209)
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Past the crux on Boltergeist. Photo by Huong.

Description 

Great climbing that never seems to quit. Soft for the grade, Boltergeist makes a terrific choice for a leader's first 10b.

Thin moves at the start make stick clipping a prudent choice. Climb on good edges and ledges past several bolts and a bulge to a nice rest ledge. Continue up the face to more purely slabby climbing at the finish.

Location 

Starts on the face just right of Shock and Awe.

Protection 

13 bolts, bolted anchors.


Photos of Boltergeist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the middle of the route.  View fro...
Looking down at the middle of the route. View fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emmett in the upper section of the route just belo...
Emmett in the upper section of the route just belo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter killing the first 5 feet of Boltergeist.
Peter killing the first 5 feet of Boltergeist.

Comments on Boltergeist Add Comment
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By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb up until right before the top. Its got a really slabby start, big jugs, a weird parallel double hand crack near a bolt thats interesting, just a lot of fun. Then it kind of just slopes off to a whimpering finish. Still gave it 4 stars though, just because, it felt pretty awesome.
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010

very well, if not too well protected. great for beginner 5.10 leaders
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Nov 30, 2010

Best route in the area. Long, moderate, and fun!
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route. Arguably, the crux is before the first bolt, especially if the start is not dry. Then again, there are several more 5.10 moves sprinkled throughout this long climb.
By Matt Roberts
From: Columbus, OH
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Not 120', more like 100'-105'--we climbed this with a 60m rope and had about 6' or so to spare after lowering.

Agree with Mark above, though. I really felt it should've probably ended at the final bolt--though the view wouldn't be quite as nice.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought this was a great route. It's long, interesting throughout, and has a good view from the top-out. You can get down with a 60m no problem.
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Aug 9, 2014

Loved the route! But to say the crux is below the first bolt is deceptive. Id say that the crux is at the sixth bolt with the parallel cracks. I pulled the bulge over the cracks and then clipped but it would be smart to clip then go as falling could result in decking on a ledge.
By Mike Bonvino
Apr 3, 2016

Challenging but just enough feet. Late afternoon sun was great for our 50 degree April day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Flashed it :)
Flashed it :)
By jsustrich
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Long and easy. Definitely not 10b. Bottom is very wet after rain

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