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The Hideout
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Special K 

Boltergeist 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Yates, Rick Weber - 2004
Page Views: 2,652
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 24, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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Past the crux on Boltergeist. Photo by Huong.

Description 

Great climbing that never seems to quit. Soft for the grade, Boltergeist makes a terrific choice for a leader's first 10b.

Thin moves at the start make stick clipping a prudent choice. Climb on good edges and ledges past several bolts and a bulge to a nice rest ledge. Continue up the face to more purely slabby climbing at the finish.


Location 

Starts on the face just right of Shock and Awe.


Protection 

13 bolts, bolted anchors.



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By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great climb up until right before the top. Its got a really slabby start, big jugs, a weird parallel double hand crack near a bolt thats interesting, just a lot of fun. Then it kind of just slopes off to a whimpering finish. Still gave it 4 stars though, just because, it felt pretty awesome.

By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010

very well, if not too well protected. great for beginner 5.10 leaders

By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Nov 30, 2010

Best route in the area. Long, moderate, and fun!

By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Great route. Arguably, the crux is before the first bolt, especially if the start is not dry. Then again, there are several more 5.10 moves sprinkled throughout this long climb.

By Matt Roberts
From: Columbus, OH
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Not 120', more like 100'-105'--we climbed this with a 60m rope and had about 6' or so to spare after lowering.

Agree with Mark above, though. I really felt it should've probably ended at the final bolt--though the view wouldn't be quite as nice.