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Bolted Multi-pitch in the Dolomites
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Mar 15, 2014
Hello all!

I will be traveling to Venice in October. With the Dolomites a few hour drive from there, I'd really love to get out there and climb for a day.

For this trip, I'd like to travel light and avoid bringing a full rack. So I'm on the lookout for a quality several pitch bolted/well protected route where all I'd need to bring is a handful of draws and a rope or two. As far as grade, I'd like to keep it between UIAA V and VI+ but I would be comfortable with a pitch or two up to VII-/VII.

I've done a good bit of research already, but information on the type of climb I'm looking for seems a bit sparse. I've been reading through "Classic Dolomite Climbs" but the info on protection is vague for the most part.

I have found this route, which seems like what I'm looking for, but I'd also like to have a few others options to consider.

Any and all information provided is hugely appreciated. I'd like to be as well informed as possible when I head out there to make my trip as efficient as possible.

Thanks in advance!
Gavin Echterling
Joined Aug 18, 2013
90 points
Mar 15, 2014
If you check out the Arco area under Italy here and go to
There are some good 4 - 10 pitch moderates. There's a walk off so only one rope is required. The routes are bolted, but you could get some gear in on some of the more sporty pitches.
Dave Meyers
From Golden, CO
Joined May 1, 2006
28 points
Mar 15, 2014
I was there last July and prepared this list for a buddy who was wanting to climb max 5.11, although some of these are a little harder you may be able to pull through. These are in two areas, about 2 hours apart, Cortina and Sella Pass. I would still carry a .3 to a 1 BD and about 15 quick draws/runner.

Have fun, the place is flippen amazing!

Falzergo Pass
La Grande Gurea (The route to the left goes at 5.12 and we had it to ourselves, this one had several parties on it.)

Pass Giau

Re Artu

Sella Pass - Towards Covera

Place in Colfosoco (Corvera)
Mention Jim Brian and Jerry

Place In Cortina
Joined Mar 8, 2007
0 points
Mar 15, 2014
Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated!

Jerry: Did you jump on either Nikibi or Re Artu? Those are two that I've been closely looking at. If so, how was the view from the summits? I'm a hobbyist photographer as well and wouldn't mind getting a good landscape shot worthy of a large print.
Gavin Echterling
Joined Aug 18, 2013
90 points
Mar 17, 2014
there's German book "The best alpine sport routes in north dolomites from 5c to 8a"
but I think october may be a little late for many of them. You may get good weather or snow at approach and ice on descent – many routes end over 2500m. For short multipitch you can try Cinque Torri

I would second Dave about Arco area ( Sarca Valley ). Placche Zebrate has over 20 multipitch sport routes in the main sector. Other areas are Piccolo Dain and Colodri. There's guidebook in english (previously called „Sarca Walls”).

I suggest to use double ropes if possible. There's high risk of falling rocks in Dolomites (and Placche Zebrate too ) + abseiling is much faster
Joined Feb 18, 2014
0 points
Mar 17, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolton, VT
Here's a sweet place I stayed in Val di Fassa a few years ago, if you're looking....
Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
338 points
Mar 17, 2014
October may well be too late in the season. At least, the one time I was there in September it all went to hell, and I've gotten snow in Cortina proper in August. I'd second Arco as a reasonable alternative should the weather not pan out for you. Similar drive time and a worthy destination. There are lots of multi-pitch routes in the immediate area, almost all are sport-bolted. Vallee di Sarca is what you would want to research. Worthwhile crags right next to town include Colidri, Monte Colt, and Mandrea, but there is a ton there. All the Dolomites routes I've done have required a rack, other than 1-3 pitch sporties at Cinque Torri. ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
321 points
Mar 20, 2014
Thanks all for the great information. I really appreciate it and this should help out a lot! Gavin Echterling
Joined Aug 18, 2013
90 points

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