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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The 
Bert's climb 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet 
Bolted face Route E1 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route 
E12 
E6 or White Lightning 
E8 or Leading cause  
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. 
Energizer E10 
giant dead tree corner, The 
Great Circle Route, The 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  
R&B 
Rapper, The 
Revelations or E11 
Spare Ribs 
Variations to Bert's Climb  
W1  
W2 
W3 
W4 
W5 
W6 

Bolted face Route E1 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unkown, late 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 23, 2009
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Description 

The entire climb is sustained face and friction. It starts out 5-7 and gets harder (5-8+) in thirty ft and then to sustained (5-9) 50ft to friction bulges (5-9+). After the bulges easier up to the big boulder on the beak route. It was a top rope climb. It got bolted late 80's. It was a top rope I couldn't get through the crux section. I couldn't get through the mid section without being paranoid in 2002. The bolts were deteriorated. I moved right into a right facing corner (5-9) and climbed it instead, midway on the climb. I got in some decent stoppers (1 got fixed by accident). It's a decent corner. After the corner I moved left, back onto this route and escaped higher up onto the Beak Buttress.


Location 

To the east of the start of the Beak Buttress is a long tongue of rock. Climb up the east side of tongue thirty ft. to sloping ledge with belay bolts to start this climb directly up slightly to the left.


Protection 

Widely spaced bolts approximately 15ft apart. This is typical well protected climbing for Owl's Head. Anywhere other than this cliff it would be rated R. Rappelling at boulder is possible off of trees.



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