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 ADVANCED
Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. T 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 
Bert's climb T 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  T 
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet S 
Bolted face Route E1 S 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure S 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy S 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route S 
E12 T 
E6 or White Lightning T,S 
E8 or Leading cause  T 
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. T 
Energizer E10 T 
giant dead tree corner, The T 
Great Circle Route, The T 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  T 
R&B T 
Rapper, The T 
Revelations or E11 T 
Spare Ribs T 
Variations to Bert's Climb  T 
W1  T 
W2 T 
W3 T 
W4 T 
W5 T 
W6 T 

Bolted face Route E1 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unkown, late 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 23, 2009

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Description 

The entire climb is sustained face and friction. It starts out 5-7 and gets harder (5-8+) in thirty ft and then to sustained (5-9) 50ft to friction bulges (5-9+). After the bulges easier up to the big boulder on the beak route. It was a top rope climb. It got bolted late 80's. It was a top rope I couldn't get through the crux section. I couldn't get through the mid section without being paranoid in 2002. The bolts were deteriorated. I moved right into a right facing corner (5-9) and climbed it instead, midway on the climb. I got in some decent stoppers (1 got fixed by accident). It's a decent corner. After the corner I moved left, back onto this route and escaped higher up onto the Beak Buttress.

Location 

To the east of the start of the Beak Buttress is a long tongue of rock. Climb up the east side of tongue thirty ft. to sloping ledge with belay bolts to start this climb directly up slightly to the left.

Protection 

Widely spaced bolts approximately 15ft apart. This is typical well protected climbing for Owl's Head. Anywhere other than this cliff it would be rated R. Rappelling at boulder is possible off of trees.


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