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Friction Rider 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unkown, late 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 23, 2009  with updates from David Powers

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The entire climb is sustained face and friction. It starts out 5-7 and gets harder (5-8+) in thirty ft and then to sustained (5-9) 50ft to friction bulges (5-9+). After the bulges easier up to the big boulder on the beak route. It was a top rope climb. It got bolted late 80's. It was a top rope I couldn't get through the crux section. I couldn't get through the mid section without being paranoid in 2002. The bolts were deteriorated. I moved right into a right facing corner (5-9) and climbed it instead, midway on the climb. I got in some decent stoppers (1 got fixed by accident). It's a decent corner. After the corner I moved left, back onto this route and escaped higher up onto the Beak Buttress.


To the east of the start of the Beak Buttress is a long tongue of rock. Climb up the east side of tongue thirty ft. to sloping ledge with belay bolts to start this climb directly up slightly to the left.


Widely spaced bolts approximately 15ft apart. This is typical well protected climbing for Owl's Head. Anywhere other than this cliff it would be rated R. Rappelling at boulder is possible off of trees.

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