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Boltaneer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 2,077
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Billy G enjoying some of the fine conglomerate on ...

Description 

Long route, as are all of the routes on Super Slab. Some sequency moves off the deck lead to some easy climbing through the less than vertical slab in the middle. The crux hits you at the overhang, where the number of holds diminish a the rock gets more steep and sequency. An enjoyable route.


Location 

Second route in from the right end of super slab.


Protection 

10 bolts to anchors.



Photos of Boltaneer Slideshow Add Photo
Fritzy gunning for the red point of "Boltaneer", 5.10a, Super Slab wall, El Rito Sport area.
Fritzy gunning for the red point of "Boltaneer", 5...
Nearing the top of "Boltaneer", El Rito Sport area.
Nearing the top of "Boltaneer", El Rito Sport area...
Amy heading up boltaneer.
Amy heading up boltaneer.
Comments on Boltaneer Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice climb and popular.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Excellent climb! Quite long and very enjoyable. Great views from the top too. I may be a little light on the rating for the crux moves, but the holds are sooo big and the vast majority of the climb is certainly not 5.10! A couple of moves off the ground lead to much easier "cruiser" climbing all the way to the roof. Need to use a 200 foot rope on this one.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Last fall we witnessed a big fall on this route in about the same area where the leader sorta hip-checked the wall down below the bulge before coming to a stop. The fall appeared to be way bigger than it should have been considering where the leader was in relation to her last protection bolt. It appeared the belayer may have had some extra slack out and was also pulled up a bit. It's a long route and having that much rope in service means for a longer, but softer, fall.
I don't recall ever feeling run-out on this route but maybe there's a decent space between the 6th and 7th bolt?
I hope the leader that fell this weekend recovers quickly!

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just thought I would mention that in one of the photos above, the leader has their leg BADLY behind the rope. That is the surest way to get really hurt on a sport route.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

J. Albers wrote:
Just thought I would mention that in one of the photos above, the leader has their leg BADLY behind the rope. That is the surest way to get really hurt on a sport route.


Thanks for your concern, J. From climbing with Allison and Nate frequently, I know these two are well aware of the rope position when it's crucial (i.e. when they're above the last piece or bolt on lead). But there are times when climbers momentarily slip around the rope when it's less crucial. (such is the case in the photo you mention.) You're right, though, it's important to keep people aware of the rope position when they're leading. Especially if they're not wearing a helmet!

It's a good thing to point this out to less experienced leaders lest they have to learn the hard way via the school of hard knocks. Pun intended. I've often seen leaders with their leg behind the rope and it scares me to see that even if it's just for a moment.