Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey 
Bolt Talk 
Bongo Fury 
Butter Side Down 
Clone Call 
Eight Flake 
Horton Here's a Tufa 
Mas Cerveza 
Rolling out the Red Carpet 
Smitten Psychopath 
Socks On Chicks 
Star Belly Sneeches 
Yertle the Turtle 

Bolt Talk 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Start up a thin seam to the right of Prototype (Sugar, 5.10, is located between Prototype and Bolt Talk). Strenuous moves lead up through the seam to slightly easier climbing above. The holds get thin again at the top. Look for a rounded knob up and to the right that leads to more small holds and the anchors.


Four bolts to anchors.

Comments on Bolt Talk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Richardson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2007

Maybe I'm missing something, but this one seems to be poorly bolted. Falling in the middle of the route will put you right back at the belay with a nasty fall. But it does seem to be a one move wonder, with the difficulty being at the top.

By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Bolt count in the description is off, Bolt Talk has 6 bolts and Fixe sport anchors. Matt you may be thinking of Unnatural to the right which does have only 4 bolts and could seem runoutish.

This seemed like a really good warm up with climbing that got progressively harder as you got higher on the wall.

By Matt Richardson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 4, 2009

Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these.