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 ADVANCED
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bisector S,TR 
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 
Bolt Talk S 
Bongo Fury S 
Butter Side Down S 
Clone Call S 
Eight Flake S 
Grinch S 
Horton Here's a Tufa S 
Mas Cerveza S 
Prototype S 
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 
Smitten Psychopath S 
Socks On Chicks S 
Star Belly Sneeches S 
Sugar S 
Unnatural S 
Yertle the Turtle S 

Bolt Talk 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott and Jean Hudson
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Start up a thin seam to the right of Prototype (Sugar, 5.10, is located between Prototype and Bolt Talk). Strenuous moves lead up through the seam to slightly easier climbing above. The holds get thin again at the top. Look for a rounded knob up and to the right that leads to more small holds and the anchors.


Protection 

Four bolts to anchors.



Comments on Bolt Talk Add Comment
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By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 21, 2007

Maybe I'm missing something, but this one seems to be poorly bolted. Falling in the middle of the route will put you right back at the belay with a nasty fall. But it does seem to be a one move wonder, with the difficulty being at the top.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bolt count in the description is off, Bolt Talk has 6 bolts and Fixe sport anchors. Matt you may be thinking of Unnatural to the right which does have only 4 bolts and could seem runoutish.

This seemed like a really good warm up with climbing that got progressively harder as you got higher on the wall.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
May 4, 2009

Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these.