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bolt replacement on north overhang



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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 19, 2010
rumbling bald

I have heard (not yet seen) the bolts on north overhang are pretty trashed and scary. i can replace these next week. should i contact
John Long (he was the FFA on the route) or anything like that. any suggestions??


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 19, 2010
Hiking some 5.fun in Squish.

Leavy15 wrote:
I have heard (not yet seen) the bolts on north overhang are pretty trashed and scary. i can replace these next week. should i contact John Long (he was the FFA on the route) or anything like that. any suggestions??


i dont think you need to contact the FFA for replacing bolts, but checking with the park management/local climbers council would be a good idea to make sure that you are aware of any legal requirements for bolt replacement in the area.


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By CO_Michael
Dec 19, 2010
Mexico roadside rocks

I am in support of the replacement.

JL is easy to get a hold of through SuperTopo.

Look in to the NPS requirement.


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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
Dec 19, 2010
My kinda simian

dhayan wrote:
I would think only 1 good bolt is needed there.


+1

And you can save the extra bolt for Double Cross after the current one gets chopped.


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By Greg Barnes
Dec 19, 2010
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

Hey Leavy15, send me an email and I'll get you in touch with Kevin Powell - he and Bob Gaines (& friends) have been doing lots of replacement and know all the details on the permits, land managers, etc. You won't be able to get a power drill replacement permit in a short period (only available for non-Wilderness areas of the park - obviously Intersection is not in Wilderness...), but KP has a permit in the works (probably for particular formations, not sure).

Generally speaking the NPS prefers replacement in the off season, and it would be best for all climbers if high visibility replacement (such as Intersection) were done how the NPS prefers.

email: greg at safeclimbing dot org


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By Greg Barnes
Dec 19, 2010
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

Oh and as far as the reducing to one good bolt - if that happens you want to be very sure that super short climbers can still clip it. One of my climbing partners is sub 5' with a negative ape index! Just a thought (I once put up a route with a similar clip situation - 4th class to the clip, huge drop-off, and no pro at all without the bolt...ended up adding a second bolt when partners couldn't clip it).


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 19, 2010
rumbling bald

very cool! great response. greg im sending you an email. Ryan whats happenein with double cross. bad anchor?


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By Nick Sullens
From Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Dec 23, 2010

+1 for replacing the upper bolt, you could potentially place gear to the right if you were short and couldn't reach the bolt safely


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By Murf
Dec 24, 2010

Nick Sullens wrote:
+1 for replacing the upper bolt, you could potentially place gear to the right if you were short and couldn't reach the bolt safely


Nick,

Have you done much bolt replacement?

Murf


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By Nick Sullens
From Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Dec 24, 2010

None at all, I just reclimbed this route five or six days ago and I remembered thinking that one good bolt would be better than those two that are currently there. Realistically, they probably don't need to be replaced. I doubt both would pull at the same time from the fall you would take on to them. However, if someone is going to do it, one would be plenty.


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By Tavis Ricksecker
From Bishop, ca
Dec 24, 2010
There Will Be Blood

A single bomber bolt in just the right place would be a big upgrade over the two sketchy ones there now... :)


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 24, 2010
rumbling bald

as long as the park is cool with it consider it done!!!


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 25, 2010
rumbling bald

hey another thing is the bolt still a ridiculous spinner at the end of overhang bypass??


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By Murf
Dec 26, 2010

Nick Sullens wrote:
None at all, I just reclimbed this route five or six days ago and I remembered thinking that one good bolt would be better than those two that are currently there. Realistically, they probably don't need to be replaced. I doubt both would pull at the same time from the fall you would take on to them. However, if someone is going to do it, one would be plenty.


Sorry Nick I was actually asking Leavy15.

Leavy15, have you done much bolt replacement?
Also, have you contacted Bob Gaines (who is on MP), he does a lot of replacement work in the park?


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 26, 2010
rumbling bald

hey murf. yeah i got into it about two years ago. i work in sequoia national park and the place is littered with smc death hangers and leepers so i took initiative on some of favorite climbs there. still lots to do. hoping the asca will give me a helping hand this spring/summer 2011. and i got contacted by this fella greg barnes and kevin powell with the asca and hoping to make some progress with them.


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By Murf
Dec 28, 2010

Leavy15 wrote:
hey murf. yeah i got into it about two years ago. i work in sequoia national park and the place is littered with smc death hangers and leepers so i took initiative on some of favorite climbs there. still lots to do. hoping the asca will give me a helping hand this spring/summer 2011. and i got contacted by this fella greg barnes and kevin powell with the asca and hoping to make some progress with them.

That's a thankless job! The few Sequoia climbs I've done definitely needed maintenance. If you are hooked up with Kevin you cannot go wrong. Thanks for the interest in JT.

Murf


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Dec 28, 2010
rumbling bald

this springs project: south face moro rocks and south cracks!! ive been waiting a while for this bad boy.


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By Kyle Wills
From San Diego CA
Jan 3, 2011
Cams are over rated.

Would love to see some project conclusion photos.


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By Adam Leavy
From Asheville, NC
Jan 3, 2011
rumbling bald

hey folks. update on North Overhang. done deal!!! nica and easy. i left the two in because it was just a hanger swap out the bolts themselves are bomber. overhang bypass no longer has the spinner either!! cheers!!


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