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The Buttermilk Boulder
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Bolt On Top 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,954
Submitted By: Ladd on May 14, 2007  with updates from Graham O.

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Evergreen hides the cruxish part (finding the good...

Description 

There is no bolt on top, but there used to be.
Highball

This spectacular slab is a classic and committing intro to the grade. Beginners, visitors and locals often swarm this climb simply due to it's quality. This may sound annoying, but their pads will save your butt if you fall. This is the classic line for the grade at Boulder Natural and Pawtuckaway.

Stand start on good crimps about 4 feet left of the big sidepull flake feature that is the start of Sandy Landing(v0)directly below a big flakey jug halfway up the wall. A few fun crimpy moves get you to the jug. Grab a good crimp, and make the crux reach to a good edge. Injuries could occur from falling off of this move. Hit the lip and mantel.


Original description: "Climb the face with ease and top out this great highball with a flat landing."

Location 

Central line on Buttermilk Boulder.

Protection 

Pads and Spotter.


Photos of Bolt On Top Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Timmy on Bolt on Top
Timmy on Bolt on Top
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex climbing on a variation of bolt on top
Alex climbing on a variation of bolt on top
Rock Climbing Photo: A good warm up V1 w/ easy hands.
A good warm up V1 w/ easy hands.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taylor working out the height crux on this problem
Taylor working out the height crux on this problem
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttermilk boulder - Bolt on top
Buttermilk boulder - Bolt on top

Comments on Bolt On Top Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 2, 2009

This thing is pure fun but I do not know why someone ever put the bolt on the top its not that big...
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Oct 24, 2010
rating: V0 4

I honestly feel that this was no harder than 5.8+, and is very fun.
By jlota
From: Portland, ME
Oct 25, 2012
rating: V1 5

This is a great problem to get your head in the game for highballs. Good holds, good feet, just breathe and send!
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: V1- 5-

Someone heavily chalked and X'd the top-most big hold. It' flexes ever so slightly when pulled on hard, I wouldn't worry, but people should know.

It goes alright without that hold, just a little more techy at the top.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 18, 2012
rating: V1 5

First climb of this video:


(Disclaimer: I'm unclear whether or not this was the official start or not - either way some more clarity could help in the description instead of just "climb the face with ease.")
By Russ Keane
Jul 29, 2014

This is a cool boulder. So high, but so moderate. Good training for your head.

There are several variations. Try going left to the arete when you are halfway up!! Traverse pro baby!

Don't fall- It's high!
By Charlie Boulanger
From: Tilton, New Hampshire
Oct 5, 2014
rating: V1 5 R

Great highball climb for a beginner. I feel like if you are 2/3rds of the way up and you start getting nervous going for the left side/arete is probably the easiest way up.
By Graham O.
Jul 6, 2016
rating: V1- 5- PG13

This thing is so awesome! I don't know of any real crux, but the move to the upper flake is sort of mentally taxing. This is by far my favorite v1 at P-Way. If you haven't done it, no matter how hard you climb, do it!!

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