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Bolt Ladder Area
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Bolt Ladder TR 
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Bolt Ladder 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1

   
Type:  TR, Aid, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1 [details]
FA: Tim McMahon
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Started Bolt Ladder Line to place (or left it) cha...

Description 

A1 aid climbing or 5.10-5.11 free climbing.

Following the bolts as closely as possible yields a line in the 5.11+ range that is fantastic. Wandering left of the bolts down low and right of the bolts up high (sometimes 6-8 feet right) yields a line in the 5.10- range.

[Contributor's Note: I haven't actually led this route free to the top of the wall as the top 7 bolts scare the hell out of me. What I have done is lead the bottom half of the route and finished by placing gear in the thin cracks out left. This variation is recommended.]

Location 

Follows the obvious line of bolts that angle up and right begining from the left-hand side of the wall.

Protection 

Bolts: a little of everything, spanning several generations of fixed gear.

Top anchor consists of a large manzanita and a coupl eof 1/2" to 3/4" pieces.


Photos of Bolt Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce climbs one the many free variations of the Bolt Ladder, near Gibraltar Rock.
Bruce climbs one the many free variations of the B...

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By Richard Shore
Feb 28, 2011

Fun line for practicing your aid systems. A mandatory bathook or free move is required to get you past a hangerless, studless sleeve bolt. Lots of old leeper hangers on the upper half of the route. A 2-bolt chain anchor sits atop the route to climbers right.
By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 8, 2012

At first when I looked at this I thought I'd replace the last old bolts on the thing. Then I did a solo aid lap on it and realized it was re-bolted perfectly for aid practice. There are 3 sections of old bolts but never more than 2 in a row without a shiny new one and only on the 2nd half of the climb so their is no ground-fall potential. This keeps things safe and interesting. Thanks and hats off to the re-bolter. Even with a 6'3" reach I had to step out of my aiders for one traversing move half way up and do a hook move to reach the anchor. Way exceeded my expectations for a bolt ladder!
By marc girardot
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1

Did lower section with a bit of cheating (standing on bolts, pulling myself up on quickdraws, etc.). This one was above my paygrade but for what I did was a good time. Left in a chainlink half way up to get my quickdraw back. Toproped again on a different line.