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A1 aid climbing or 5.10-5.11 free climbing.
Following the bolts as closely as possible yields a line in the 5.11+ range that is fantastic. Wandering left of the bolts down low and right of the bolts up high (sometimes 6-8 feet right) yields a line in the 5.10- range.
[Contributor's Note: I haven't actually led this route free to the top of the wall as the top 7 bolts scare the hell out of me. What I have done is lead the bottom half of the route and finished by placing gear in the thin cracks out left. This variation is recommended.]
Follows the obvious line of bolts that angle up and right begining from the left-hand side of the wall.
Bolts: a little of everything, spanning several generations of fixed gear.
Top anchor consists of a large manzanita and a coupl eof 1/2" to 3/4" pieces.
Bruce climbs one the many free variations of the B...
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 28, 2011
Fun line for practicing your aid systems. A mandatory bathook or free move is required to get you past a hangerless, studless sleeve bolt. Lots of old leeper hangers on the upper half of the route. A 2-bolt chain anchor sits atop the route to climbers right.
|By adam winslow|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 8, 2012
At first when I looked at this I thought I'd replace the last old bolts on the thing. Then I did a solo aid lap on it and realized it was re-bolted perfectly for aid practice. There are 3 sections of old bolts but never more than 2 in a row without a shiny new one and only on the 2nd half of the climb so their is no ground-fall potential. This keeps things safe and interesting. Thanks and hats off to the re-bolter. Even with a 6'3" reach I had to step out of my aiders for one traversing move half way up and do a hook move to reach the anchor. Way exceeded my expectations for a bolt ladder!
|By marc girardot|
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Did lower section with a bit of cheating (standing on bolts, pulling myself up on quickdraws, etc.). This one was above my paygrade but for what I did was a good time. Left in a chainlink half way up to get my quickdraw back. Toproped again on a different line.