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Bolt Ladder Area

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Bolt Ladder TR 
California Flake T 
Finger Cracks T,TR 

Bolt Ladder Area  


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Location: 34.4768, -119.6796 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,986
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 17, 2007
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I pulled this 100+ pound rock out of the wall whil...

Description 

This popular formation is immediately adjacent to Gibraltar Road just downhill from the Main Gibraltar formation. The lower part of the cliff is actually a road-cut left behind in the building of Gibraltar Road while the top of the cliff is native rock.

The centerpiece of this wall is the namesake bolt ladder which runs approximately up the middle of the wall. It was established by then Sierra Club trip leader Tim McMahon in 1969. Today, the bolt ladder can be climbed free or by direct aid, although the aging lead bolts do not inspire confidence--most of these bolts are old-school Star Dryvin nail & sleeve bolts.

In addition to the Bolt Ladder itself, this cliff is home to a few other fun climbs. Most notable are California Flake, a moderate crack and face climb up the plumb-line of the wall, and the 5.10 Finger Cracks on the far right-hand side.

Access to the top of the cliff can be achieved using the class-3 slabs and bush-covered ledges uphill and around the corner from the wall. Bring long slings to top-rope routes. An anchor can be made using a large manzanita and 1/2"-3/4" pro. There are also 2 half-inch expansion bolts located off to one side. Descend by rappelling from slings around the manzanita or reverse the approach.

Getting There 

From the parking pull-outs next to the main Gibraltar formation, walk down the road for about 100 yards. The cliff will appear on your left after the road makes a sharp left-hand bend.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bolt Ladder Area:
Bolt Ladder   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1     TR, Aid, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Bolt Ladder Area

Featured Route For Bolt Ladder Area
Nicole climbs the Finger Cracks (5.10b) on the Bolt Ladder Wall at Gibraltar, as Kathleen looks on.

Finger Cracks 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Bolt Ladder Area
Two parallel finger cracks run half way up the right-hand side of the wall. Both cracks end abruptly at a wide, horizontal crack/ledge.Like so many Santa Barbara cracks, these would be excellent...if only they extended for another 40 feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Bolt Ladder Area Slideshow Add Photo
David Abzug climbs one of many different variations to the Bolt Ladder at Gibraltar Rock in Santa Barbara.
David Abzug climbs one of many different variation...
The Bolt Ladder Area, near Gibraltar Rock
BETA PHOTO: The Bolt Ladder Area, near Gibraltar Rock
David Abzug lowers off the Bolt Ladder, at Gibraltar Rock, after a successful ascent.
David Abzug lowers off the Bolt Ladder, at Gibralt...
Nicole climbs the Finger Cracks (5.10b) on the Bolt Ladder Wall at Gibraltar.
Nicole climbs the Finger Cracks (5.10b) on the Bol...

Comments on Bolt Ladder Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2009
There are two significant changes to this area in recent days. First, a large block fell out of the wall on California Flake rendering the start of that route more difficult. A recent repaving also widened Gibraltar Road and made the dirt shoulder beneath the Bolt Ladder much smaller. Busy days when there is a lot of automobile traffic now feel much more exposed for the belayer.
By Tom Shank
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 3, 2013
Is it possible to actually go up the left face directly, without following the ledge just slightly more left and up it to the nice finger crack line? There have been some fairly new bolts placed at the beginning, but the last 7 bolts are rusty monsters, they scared my trust away.