I visited the Upper West a few weeks ago and had lots of fun. New routes, nice rock! I did the 5.8 crack (Chockstone) and it had a strange anchor. One bolt with rap anchor, and some slings around a dead tree that didn't qquite equalize with the bolt. I added a sling and got it equalized and made a mental note to fix the anchor if I ever got back there. Yesterday, I stopped by to do the Rose and warmed up on Chockstone. I brought the drill to fix the anchor, but when I topped out the other bolt was gone as well! This led to two questions: 1. Bolt war? 2. How did they get a 3/8 stud bolt out? I would like to be able to do it when rebolting. I didn't want to create issues. so I left via rappel from the dead tree. Anyone know what is up?

Last time I did the Captains crack (I think this is the same climb your referring to) was in May....at the time there were 2 very large and burly hangers at the top out. They were both smooth and therefore we were easily able to rap off them.....not sure what's happened there since??

A new 2 bolt anchor is now at the top of Chockstone (3" x 3/8" double sleeve SS with SS rap rings). Unfortunately, it is not optimally sited for rope pull due to the rock texture up there. Judging by the old bolt holes, either the drill bit used was an 11mm (seems unlikely) or the drill used was rocked as the hole was drilled creating an oversize hole. Additionally, the holes are only 1.25" deep which is inadequate for schist. For reference, anyone placing bolts in Vermont schist should opt for double sleeve 3" SS with SS hangers or 12mm glueins. Make sure to overdrill the hole so that the bolt stud can be pounded flush with the rock surface in the event that the bolt needs to be removed. If you are unsure of what you are doing, there are plenty of locals with drilling expertise that frequent this board that would be more than willing to assist you. I strongly encourage you to talk with someone before drilling if you are unsure.

Nice work guys, thanks a lot!

You kick ass. Thank you.