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Bolt issues at Bolton?
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By kemple sr.
Sep 28, 2012

I visited the Upper West a few weeks ago and had lots of fun. New routes, nice rock! I did the 5.8 crack (Chockstone) and it had a strange anchor. One bolt with rap anchor, and some slings around a dead tree that didn't qquite equalize with the bolt. I added a sling and got it equalized and made a mental note to fix the anchor if I ever got back there. Yesterday, I stopped by to do the Rose and warmed up on Chockstone. I brought the drill to fix the anchor, but when I topped out the other bolt was gone as well! This led to two questions: 1. Bolt war? 2. How did they get a 3/8 stud bolt out? I would like to be able to do it when rebolting. I didn't want to create issues. so I left via rappel from the dead tree. Anyone know what is up?


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By Nick Votto
Sep 28, 2012
Bolton, VT

Last time I did the Captains crack (I think this is the same climb your referring to) was in May....at the time there were 2 very large and burly hangers at the top out. They were both smooth and therefore we were easily able to rap off them.....not sure what's happened there since??


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By John Husky
Sep 29, 2012

kemple sr. wrote:
I visited the Upper West a few weeks ago and had lots of fun. New routes, nice rock! I did the 5.8 crack (Chockstone) and it had a strange anchor. One bolt with rap anchor, and some slings around a dead tree that didn't qquite equalize with the bolt. I added a sling and got it equalized and made a mental note to fix the anchor if I ever got back there. Yesterday, I stopped by to do the Rose and warmed up on Chockstone. I brought the drill to fix the anchor, but when I topped out the other bolt was gone as well! This led to two questions: 1. Bolt war? 2. How did they get a 3/8 stud bolt out? I would like to be able to do it when rebolting. I didn't want to create issues. so I left via rappel from the dead tree. Anyone know what is up?


I did the route several weeks ago and was told that one bolt was pulled out by hand. The second was a spinner that I could take the nut off with my fingers. The bolt could be wiggled by my fingers, as if the hole was the wrong size. The tree is no kind of safe anchor. I would never tie into it for any reason. My partner clipped the anchor bolt with a sling and yanked it straight out with his hand.

No anchor war from me, I can get the hanger back if anyone wants it (my partner has it). I would love to see them replaced. I am more concerned about any other bolts this person may have installed. They should all be removed. I have kids for f~~k sake.

As is this route is a walk off. The only live, safe tree is 15-20 feet higher. Don't try to rap off of it without a long sling.


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By Seth Maciejowski
Oct 3, 2012

A new 2 bolt anchor is now at the top of Chockstone (3" x 3/8" double sleeve SS with SS rap rings). Unfortunately, it is not optimally sited for rope pull due to the rock texture up there. Judging by the old bolt holes, either the drill bit used was an 11mm (seems unlikely) or the drill used was rocked as the hole was drilled creating an oversize hole. Additionally, the holes are only 1.25" deep which is inadequate for schist. For reference, anyone placing bolts in Vermont schist should opt for double sleeve 3" SS with SS hangers or 12mm glueins. Make sure to overdrill the hole so that the bolt stud can be pounded flush with the rock surface in the event that the bolt needs to be removed. If you are unsure of what you are doing, there are plenty of locals with drilling expertise that frequent this board that would be more than willing to assist you. I strongly encourage you to talk with someone before drilling if you are unsure.


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By Derek Doucet
Oct 3, 2012

Seth Maciejowski wrote:
A new 2 bolt anchor is now at the top of Chockstone (3" x 3/8" double sleeve SS with SS rap rings). Unfortunately, it is not optimally sited for rope pull due to the rock texture up there. Judging by the old bolt holes, either the drill bit used was an 11mm (seems unlikely) or the drill used was rocked as the hole was drilled creating an oversize hole. Additionally, the holes are only 1.25" deep which is inadequate for schist. For reference, anyone placing bolts in Vermont schist should opt for double sleeve 3" SS with SS hangers or 12mm glueins. Make sure to overdrill the hole so that the bolt stud can be pounded flush with the rock surface in the event that the bolt needs to be removed. If you are unsure of what you are doing, there are plenty of locals with drilling expertise that frequent this board that would be more than willing to assist you. I strongly encourage you to talk with someone before drilling if you are unsure.


Thanks, Seth. Been meaning to get over there to do this, but haven't had the chance.


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By kemple sr.
Oct 3, 2012

Nice work guys, thanks a lot!


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By John Husky
Oct 3, 2012

You kick ass. Thank you.


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