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BETA PHOTO: Get Shorty and Bolt Cola
Well protected, possibly over-bolted route, but good quality nevertheless. This is the first pitch of Astrophysics. Some neat balancy mantels are the crux (I guess). The route seems more like 9. Pull the roof on the right side and look for the last bolt just over the lip.
8 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor. The last 20 ft. are runout 5.6, where a cam could be placed, but quite easy.
BETA PHOTO: 2. Simmer
3. Bolt Cola
Move into the shallow left facing corner before st...
On the steeper crux section. Gorgeous (to look at ...
|By Ben Mottinger|
Jan 1, 2001
To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
You might want to take a couple of medium sized pieces for the 20-25 foot stretch to the anchor. By the way what does overbolted actually mean?
|By Andy Moore|
Sep 28, 2001
I've led this route without using the bolts, and there is only one place where I felt the pro was not great, and that was up high, under the roof, just before you get to easier ground (and good pro again). There was a so-so small cam placement below the roof, but the rock wasn't so great around the cams, and I didn't really want to test it.
|By pete cogan|
Aug 4, 2002
Variation of Fear: Not knowing where (Read: if) that bolt was on the R side of the roof, I went left and protected the flake/crack with a couple of stoppers. You can then head left to the other set of bolted anchors, or proceed R to the intended anchors.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 13, 2003
After getting reacquainted with real 5.9 face climbing out in Toulumne this year, I wonder if my toes were out of tune when we rated Bolt Cola. But, if Ken Cangi is suggesting 5.10b, I'm all for it. Close bolts really make things feel easier to me. My purpose was to just have a good warm-up for Jolt nearby, instead of having to roll the dice on Hike with Ludwig Dude.
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Aug 13, 2003
Actually more like 1 1/2 * ; good , but really outstanding.
[Definitely] over-rated at 5.10 and would probably go at 5.8 in Shelf.
There is a bit of a run-out to the anchors (but it is pretty easy), a couple of 3/4" to 1" cams would help steady down a leader used to an "over-bolted" routes.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2004
This is the easiest route in this area to identify because you start by stepping off a spike of rock. You can't see the last bolt from the 6th bolt (at least we didn't), so without this knowledge we "bailed" left, where you can get some gear in. After placing another small cam you can wander up and right to the chains (looks tricky but is not), or head left for the anchor on "Shimmer".
Down low, there are several ways to get between the bolts so it's kind of hard to rate. No way is this route 5.8, though!
|By Michael Amato|
Oct 21, 2004
A number of fun moves, well protected with bolts until after the roof, then some runout, but on relatively easy ground.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 15, 2007
We all know how subjective grades can be, based on so many criteria. 10a is such a nebulous grade for me, because I have climbed considerably harder than that for almost thirty years. That said, I have the perfect metric for calling that grade. It's Bolting For Glory. Consensus, Eldo 10a, always feels the same to me, and so if a route feels that hard, I call it 10a. The crux of Bolt Cola feels just about the same to me. The only reason that I bother to give opinions on grades, on MP, is to give leaders at their limit an idea of what they are in for.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
Thought this was a fun route and does have some thoughtful 5.10ish moves. But not knowing where the next bolt was at the roof I headed left thinking I could protect the crack with a cam. The placement looked a little marginal, but I went for it anyways. I slipped, the piece pulled, and I went quite a ways. Pulled myself together and went back up and this time went right, much easier that way and I thought I was wimping out, but I guess that is the way the route goes! Moral of the story is: good to read the descriptions on here first, and of course I shouldn't have tried it on marginal gear. I'll be back.
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Sep 18, 2009
Climbed this yesterday- fun route, used a grey Alien in the seam/crack between the last bolt & the anchor. Enjoyed it quite a bit!
- *As of 17 Sep 09 there is/was an ACTIVE wasp nest very close to the 7th/last bolt...BEWARE!**
|By Area Dan|
Jan 2, 2012
I found a pair of Evolv shoes at the base of this climb today (1/2/2012). PM or call me if they are yours.