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Tower One
Routes Sorted
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Armed and Hammered 
Bollocks 
Brainless Conformants 
Cause for Alarm 
Cheap Thrills 
Hell is for Children 
Little Hellion 
Medussa 
Pandora 
Rezin Scraper 
Shelter from the Storm 
What the Hell 

Bollocks 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Sara G, Greg M, Luke D, 9/9/03
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Nice end rap into the oak tree...
  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description (middle of wall, unga bunga, climb stuff. ugh) 

    Bollocks - that's what you might find yourself mumbling (shouting?) when lowering off the route straight into thick brush. But that's only half the fun!

    Bollocks features fun climbing on big ole' jugs through a right trending vertical wall. Cool undercling moves abound, the climbing is sustained and straightforward, the bolts where you want them... What more do you want from a warm-up?
    Cleaning this one can be a pain as thick patches of oak loom to the right. You'll swing in there if you lower and battle them if you rap. Use your brainz.


    Location 

    Bollocks is the easternmost route on Tower 1, it starts about 30' right of JimmyG's What the Hell. Look for a prow/sub-tower with a fat roof on the east side of Tower 1. You'll spot bolts heading out of a steep dirt gully capped with brush to the right of said sub-tower.


    Protection 

    11 bolts to a 2-bolts chain anchor.



    Comments on Bollocks Add Comment
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    By Robert MacKinnon
    Jul 31, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    This route starts in a small and short gully.

    By grego
    From: Durham
    Aug 21, 2009

    Not the best route. Did not seem like a 5.10, more like 5.9

    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 23, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    An easy warm up. Another one of those 5.8/10a sport climbs that abound in the gym and sometimes outside. Worth doing, but not 5.10.

    By KipHenrie
    From: centerville, utah
    Aug 4, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    Amazing. Wow that view is drop dead gorgeous. I love this place.

    By split161
    Sep 7, 2013
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

    jug haul...5.9-