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Routes in South Face
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Bewilderbeast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bolee Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harder Than It Used To Be S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hooker's Haven T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.7759, -120.30819 |
| FA: | Gary Anderson, Jay Smith and Rick Summer, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 7,658 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Mar 7, 2005 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf. From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right). Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors. The first pitch totals 7 bolts. The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay.
The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustained crimp-fest. This is what I base the 3 star rating on.
From here, continue directly upwards past some flakes, then onto easier slab that is runout, but bolt-protected 5.8.
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