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Mustache Wall
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Boldly Departed 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (July 5, 2009)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: terri condon on Mar 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

This route S-curves up the wall passing thru three separate overhangs to a bold and committing move onto an exposed arete. Delicate climbing on the arete leads to larger holds and the anchor above.


Location 

Begins 12' to the right of The Becky Route


Protection 

13 bolts with a 2-bolt mussy hook anchor. Lower off with a 60m.



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By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great new climb, the name says it all! Cruxes are technical, the climbing pretty sustained, and it's long. The arete move high up is a mind bender! Crux difficulty may be somewhat height dependent. Because the hard moves are technical and improbable I think the redpoint rating is 11b and the onsight maybe a tick harder.

By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 15, 2011

Will probably be harder for shorter people. I think a key hold has broken at the arete move which makes the climb a little more dynamic. Overall, the holds are a little awkward in spots, but still well worth doing.

By Tommy L-D
Sep 19, 2011

Beta = Dyno!!

By Phil Esra
Aug 4, 2014

Fun, sustained climbing on sometimes dodgy rock. There's a creaky optional undercling/sidepull, in line with the start of the route, that's going to let go sooner or later--heads up belayers.