Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man  5.10d R

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  James Crump, Karen Ghiselli Submitted By:  Stu Ritchie on Jan 17, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Embarking on Bold Talk...unfortunately the batteri...

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Description 

Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."

This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!

An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.

Location 

Down and right from Ripple by a large tree with a bolt over the overlap. Just left of the prominent black streak containing Gravitron.

Protection 

All you need is about 8 draws and ample huevos! A #2 Camalot will protect the clip of the initial bolt.