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 ADVANCED
The Shield
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Gravy T,TR 
Ambulance Blues S,TR 
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
Carpet Crawl T,TR 
Deep Prok S 
Eden T,TR 
Elastic Happiness T,TR 
Fly on a Windshield T 
French Route T,S 
God's Elastic Acre T,TR 
Gravitron T,TR 
Green Death TR 
Happy Radio T,TR 
Intensive Care T,TR 
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 
La Dolce Vita TR 
Mexican Radio T,TR 
Nerdwand T,TR 
Prok T 
Pummel Jenga T,TR 
Real Gravy T 
Runamuck T 
Sixth Happiness T 
Stranger Direct T,TR 
Stranger Than Friction T 
Texas Radio T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: James Crump, Karen Ghiselli
Page Views: 2,831
Submitted By: Stu Ritchie on Jan 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Embarking on Bold Talk...unfortunately the batteri...

Description 

Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."

This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!

An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.

Location 

Down and right from Ripple by a large tree with a bolt over the overlap. Just left of the prominent black streak containing Gravitron.

Protection 

All you need is about 8 draws and ample huevos! A #2 Camalot will protect the clip of the initial bolt.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

By no means a death route, but a strong R in my book. Very good route.
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