Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking prow/arete with the handrail that curves along it's edge - the business. To the first bolt the route is about 5.7 with sparse gear. Climb up the steep, juggy handrail past two more bolts to a sinker pocket and well hidden chain anchor at the lip. Don't cheat yourself by climbing to the steep lip of the cliff, clipping and lowering. Top it out for old school satisfaction, then reverse the topout moves and lower.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.
Bold is Love is located about 50 feet to the right of The Prow. Eyeball the handrail high above, and the line to it will be fairly obvious. Be sure to avoid the mossy crack in the first twenty feet by starting up the face to the right. The first hold is a big, angling jug.
#2 camalot, #.75 camalot, 5 quick draws. 60m rope.
|By Dean Hoffman|
Jun 15, 2008
Climbed this last week and its fantastic! Another beautiful, not contrived line. Perhaps we are seeing the dawn of a new Renaissance at West Elden. Strong work Colin and Helen, bolted on lead no less.
|By Will Cobb|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2008
This route is awesome. Pretty stout at 5.10+ but it should be at west elden.
|By Colin Cox|
Sep 5, 2012
We originally rated this 10d because David said it was. I changed the grade after doing it again recently. This climb is 5.11, just as we originally thought.