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Routes in West Gully
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5.9 Wall S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boiled in Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Guillotine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stretch Rack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth |
| Page Views: | 918 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.
Far less featured than Stretch Rack 5.10b (much safer falls too). 4 bolts lead you straight up to open cold shuts at the anchor.
Start with smearing and a massive undercling. The first bolt is high enough that an injury is very likely if you fall before clipping. So, don't fall. If youre leading 11b you shouldn't have a problem with the first clip, but just do everyone a favor and stick-clip or take a good look at the moves before you start.
The crux can be identified from the ground, just after the 2nd bolt. Protection is at your waist for the hard moves, followed by bomber holds that run out to the 3rd bolt.
Far less featured than Stretch Rack 5.10b (much safer falls too). 4 bolts lead you straight up to open cold shuts at the anchor.
Start with smearing and a massive undercling. The first bolt is high enough that an injury is very likely if you fall before clipping. So, don't fall. If youre leading 11b you shouldn't have a problem with the first clip, but just do everyone a favor and stick-clip or take a good look at the moves before you start.
The crux can be identified from the ground, just after the 2nd bolt. Protection is at your waist for the hard moves, followed by bomber holds that run out to the 3rd bolt.
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