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Orange Pillar
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Boi-oi-oi-ing! 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Barry Oswick, Urmas Franosch, Eric Sorenson. 09/03
Season: Summer
Page Views: 5,239
Submitted By: outdooreric on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Aerili staying between the lines.

Description 

P1 (5.10a): Climbs up the right side of a giant wedged block about 25 feet off the ground. Continue up double cracks to the highest ledge before the upper headwall. Bolted anchor at 85 feet.

P2 (5.10a): Start out slightly up and left of the anchor and get ready for 165 feet of hand jamming! Generally there are two or three cracks to choose from. When in doubt, stay to the left. Bolted anchor.

P3 (5.9): Not recommended due to loose rock and friable holds. If you do climb this, we left some fixed junk to rap from, beware.


Location 

On the orange tower that faces east. This climb actually has somewhat of a southerly aspect.
To get down with one rope, do a short rappel off the right side of the wall (East) from the top of pitch 2. This brings you to the anchor for "Do I Make You Horny?", then do another 100 foot rappel to get back to the first pitch anchor.


Protection 

Doubles in cams from fingers to fist. Some may want a couple extra hand or thin hand sized pieces.



Photos of Boi-oi-oi-ing! Slideshow Add Photo
Brad Johnson-Cox leading Pitch 1.
Brad Johnson-Cox leading Pitch 1.
Pitch 1 of Boi-oi-oing.  The crux is a bit past this block.
Pitch 1 of Boi-oi-oing. The crux is a bit past th...
Orange Pillar. Boi-oi-oi-ing is the main crack split up the middle of the pillar.
BETA PHOTO: Orange Pillar. Boi-oi-oi-ing is the main crack spl...
The Business!
The Business!
Last pitch of Boi-oi-oi-ing. Agree with the comment about this pitch. How do you compete with pitch 1 and especially pitch 2.
Last pitch of Boi-oi-oi-ing. Agree with the commen...
Cracks!!!
Cracks!!!
Comments on Boi-oi-oi-ing! Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 21, 2007

The first two pitches are excellent, sustained, aesthetic climbing. Tight hands, ugh! :)

By BryanM
Dec 8, 2008

Completely agree about the last pitch. We did it anyway. Left some stoppers to rap from in '05. Just to back up a hex that had some questionable webbing. I'll post a pic of the last pitch.

By Thrutchtastic
From: Sparks, NV
Sep 25, 2009

Fantastic climb! When rapping down from the top of pitch two, go straight down the face that the bolts are on (not down the climb itself--even with a 70m you won't make it to the P1 belay) to find rap anchors.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Perfect hands, woo! :)

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 18, 2010

The hands are perfect if you are a fairy-nymph. For us normal people they are bit tight. There is some grittyness to the route but has some great climbing in a spectacular setting.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Exceptional route and a beautiful line.

P1 - Shorter than P2, but still has some gitty up.
P2 - The money pitch. This thing is long, and at 11,000 feet seems even longer. Probably around 140-150 feet. Very sustained climbing, with few rests in the first 100'. Once you get below the big spike sticking out, rests begin appearing. Save a couple #3 camalots for the top third (I placed one below the spike, and moving up the wide crack above the spike).

I had a standard rack (double thin to #3 camalot) + 2 extra #1s and 2 extra #2s. I was able to find lots of spots for non-handsized gear on P2, but I still ended up placing all the #1s and #2s. YMMV.

Descent: Rap straight down the nose of the buttress, don't drop into the corner on the opposite side of the route. I made that mistake and nearly passed the rap anchors. The first rap is short, like 30-40 feet down to some mussy hooks. Then a 100' rap down to the P1 anchors (be sure to avoid getting the rope in the crack). And then another rap to the ground. The Mammoth Climbing Book (Marty Lewis) has incorrect descent info - it claims the first rap is 100' and then to rap a different route. Follow the instructions above and all will be good.

By aliebling
Jul 5, 2013

For those without a guidebook, this climb (and the orange pillar it is on) are quite far right from where the approach path hits the first wall. It is directly above the middle of the lake below the crag. You will know the climb when you see it (both from the pitch descriptions and the two sets of anchors visible).

Also, the anchor atop P1 has no rap rings, only bolts.

By JarydB
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I got my rope badly stuck after the 2nd rappel. With bad weather approaching, I opted to fix the remainder to the first anchor, rap off, and return for it. This is a great route, but those amazing hand cracks will eat up your rope if you aren't careful!