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photo 1 Bohemian
A high quality fun climb that has alot of variety. The route starts off vertical and progressively overhangs til the end. The route has two starts: the left is 10b the right is 11a (for my height 6 4" left start about 10b). Starts with good crimps to a bolt and a small ledge with another bolt. Then up a small roof to a girth hitched hueco here go slightly right up a wide crack with 2 bolts to the right of the crack. At the top of the wide crack go right and up past 3 girth hitched huecos to a 2 bolt anchor. Lots of cool moves that are all about the same grade!
The route is one of the first at the bottom of the main climbing area. It has a series of water pipes that run from a spring to a village. Belay area can be a bit wet. The climb is in the shade and the belay is in the shade
10 draws and something for the anchor
beta photo Bohemian
Elna Coffman on the 5.11 boulder start
|By Rajiv Ayyangar|
From: Portland, ME
Oct 29, 2012
Guidebook has this as 10d, with 11a for the direct start. This was my first route at Cantabaco, so I'm really not sure about the grade except that it's in the 5.10 range. There were a few spots where you wouldn't want to fall, which might explain Patrick's PG13 rating. However it's no more nor less safe than one would expect from a vertical off-width 5.10 sport climb. I don't know if most other people would give it PG13.