Body English 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | tobias on May 18, 2003 |
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Using some Body English as seen from the road.
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Description Nice route. If you wanna place gear in the canyon, this is one to consider. It starts up a big left-facing dihedral, goes over a bulge, then later a roof. Plenty of placement options. As the climbing gets easier (although the rock is a bit sketchier), head left up under the huge overhang. There's an anchor there that you can rap off (or continue on with the short second pitch named "Upper Cut"--recommended). The Colorado Front Range book lists this as over a 100 foot rappel, but it's not. The length of the climb is more like 80 feet total. Great belay ledge, nice views of the canyon and kayakers in the spring.
Protection Medium rack. I only used wires and cams, though hexes would have taken well....
Wide stem at the first of two roofs.
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Above 1st roof and headed for the 2nd.
Taken from ...
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By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 20, 2008
| I thought this is a quality route. Hexes do work really well on this climb. I thought it was closer to 100', though we didn't bring a measuring tape and we stopped at the chains which adds a little. There wasn't more than ~30' of the 70m rope on the ground for the rap. |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.9
| To clarify, the anchors listed as 110' (from Alvino's notes) are further left along the ledge system (above Epidote, I think). The first two cold shuts you get to at the top of Body English are really only about 85' back to the ledge.
Classic and fun route. Great gear, solid stone, fun jamming. Plenty of body English gets you through the hard parts. A #4 Camalot was nice to have. |
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.9
| This was my first time to the area, and I picked Body English because of how beautiful of a line it was. The movement on the climb was funky, challenging, and spectacular. Very fun route!! |
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