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Ragged Edges Area
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Bodiddly 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Harrison Robert Finlay 1985
Season: Shade after 12
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: meo on Aug 4, 2009
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Bodiddly, 5.11a R. My head is blocking the view of...

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Description 

PG13/R
3 bolts in first 75'
Have to do the crux before clipping 3rd bolt and then thin moves to Jug. You could become a
second-hand moving counter-clock-wise on a cheap watch:)


Location 

Willow Springs/Ragged Edges area
Start up big flake to first bolt 20ft
Rappel Vision Quest or Tonto or Walk off left


Protection 

3 bolts, BD cams c2 through 1"
Build anchor above Vision Quest or top out



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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Oct 4, 2010

this is an established 5.10 rock climb in each guide book

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jun 11, 2011

Richard Harrison 10d+old sketch bolts+possibility of swinging, scraping, good sized fall=not 11a? Hair-splitting, amigo. The original version is Bodacious, which IS rated 11a, so guess 11b on that one and you're probably not far off. I'll take Mike's word on it.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 27, 2012

If Chicken Eruptus gets an "R" (which is not the case) rating then this deserves an "X." The movement is great but most of the holds on the route are definitely suspect. I made it up to the 3rd bolt but almost puked trying to clip it and so backed down to the 2nd and bailed.

The bolts are SMC but are in much better shape than some of the bolts I've seen around RR. The bolt to the left of me in the photo is definitely questionable. Overall, there is some good climbing to be had on this route but the possibility of a HUGE pendulum fall and sub-par rock keeps the masses away- myself included.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
May 28, 2012

Bolts are all 100% on this one as of this week, all stainless ASCA gear.

Andy, those SMC hangers themselves were ok, but when you spy out old bolts, take a look at the size of the visible stud as well. The bolts we chopped out (first 2) were non-standard size (5/16?) that didn't fit the hole on the hanger(3/8). They were probably good for a few falls but rattly hangers are sketchball, corroded or not. When leveraged the wrong way, no amount of washers are going to keep the hanger from bending over like a sorority girl at a freshman mixer-got a pile of SMCs in the garage that are bent to hell from hand pressure using a hammer for leverage. I'll show you a few sometime.

Replaced the bolt on Bodacious as well-that top one was ROTTEN. Both routes are fine examples of the style of only bolting when absolutely necessaryproud, old-school climbing and no joke. Climb with caution.