Bocomaru  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Clark Jacobs and Bob Bolton, 1983 Submitted By:  Darrell Hensel on Sep 4, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The big and the little, the tall and the short. Quite the contrast in the body sizes of the first ascent party, and it's reflected by the name they gave the route.

Good rock, good climbing, thin technical moves.

From the extreme left end of the ledge make a move or two to stand up at the first bolt. The crux is encountered almost immediately, 11d edging/smearing on small steepish holds. Above, pass two more bolts, moving around the rib (11a) to the right after the last bolt. Somewhat runout climbing takes one to the top of the Buttress of Cracks.

Alternatively, it is possible to go left and up at the third bolt (10d), compliments of John Long. This is a more serious finish and may be loose enough to be unpleasant/scary.

Location 

The large ledge on the left hand side of East Buttress Gully. One can also get there by doing a couple of moves up and right from the belay at the end of Captain Hook's first pitch.

Protection 

Bolts and a bit of gear for the top anchor.