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Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 

5.12

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2001
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

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Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start just right of the "Bobsled". Make a series of difficult bouldering moves past three bolts. Clip the third bolt on the Bobsled with a long sling and finish with the Bobsled. Great climbing.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2008

So, this now continues on its own independent line to the anchor above Lucky strikes for a 5.13 "War on Freedom"?

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2008

Rolofson lists this start as War Sled, and escaping the line even higher as Freedom Sled.

His description of the full War on Freedom mentions stemming out to the holds on Bobsled, but I've been trying to stay the line.

Edit: I finally unlocked the stopper move and know the line will go without any use of Bobsled holds. It's an intense high step/rock up move off the slopey crimp to the high sidepull seam. Now I just gotta put it all together on lead!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.12-

Personally I think this route barely tips the scale at 5.12. A hard entrance move leads to easier climbing and then probably mid-11 climbing on Bobsled. More like 5.12a as the entrance moves are barely V4, but, nonetheless, this climb is good with a weird finish on Bobsled.