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Bob's Knob Standard 
Empress 
Regular Route 
Thanksgiving  

Bob's Knob Standard 

5.3

   
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Type: Trad, 6 pitches, 840 feet
Consensus: 5.3 [details]
FA: John Case, Bob Notman, 1933
Submitted By: derek nabozny on Jul 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Bob's Knob

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The original route on chapel pond slab  



P1 same as regular route
note all Variants of the start of regular route can be used for Bobs Knob
P2 up and right onto stepped rock then break left, left of a good crack to a ledge or continue up over a slight bulge to a ledge that will bypass some of the vegetation on the route.5.2G
(P1 and P2 can be linked together with some easy simulclimbing)
P3 up and right to clean rock above trees to a depression. move left to a hand crack onto fricton moves into the forest. 5.1G
P4 3rd class from the forest unrope and traverse right just above the forest across a bare rock area that will lead to a prow above a small slab.
P5 move right onto prow to mantle onto a ledge traverse right to a chimney with two pitons on its base then climb into chimney (often wet) to a fixed anchor on to move past into woods to a crack 15 feet to a terrace. 5.3G
P6 Up a slab to a ledge where it meets with Regular Route climb large S shaped crack to another ledge climb up short wall with handcrack to a left leaning crack in bulge climb the crack to untill you are on easy friction moves to the top 5.2G

To descend use the North Decent gully or there are several trees with gear mostly new stuff to rap from down into gully

  • * this is the recommended route via the Haas and Lawyer guide book however there are many options to belay on this climb and there are a lot of places where you can bypass vegetation or wet areas by moving onto some harder holds or less protected friction



Photos of Bob's Knob Standard Slideshow Add Photo
Usual start Of Bob's Knob, very moderate with decent protect spots if desired. Same start as "Regular Route"

Usual start Of Bob's Knob, very moderate with dece...

Bob's  Knob pitch #5 (after the scrabble through trees) is the upper center half of pic. Birch tree with climber in center of pic  is the rappel tree if desired.

Bob's Knob pitch #5 (after the scrabble thr...

Rappelling from birch tree looking up at pitch 5 (5.3 "toughest pitch"). You can use the same rappel (or scramble)when decending from the regular route.

Rappelling from birch tree looking up at pitch 5 (...


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By derek nabozny
From: Mohawk Valley, NY
Jul 12, 2010

Climbed at night with Eric Albers it was a extremely wet and had to break off onto harder terrain a few times but was a great way to get familiar with the rock and kill time until the rest of the climbing mafia arrived