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Bobby's Problem 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mid crux on this sustained problem.

Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sit start on let hand jug and a right hand crimp. Make a long move to a good pocket, move you feet around and get into the business. Move left hand to a crimp and move right hand up right to a three finger crimp. from here traverse left to the quartz jug in the crack and tackle the nerve rattling topout .

Please also be careful of the broken tree, a fall from the top could give you some very serious injuries if you land on the tree.

Location 

On the backside (north) of the entrance boulder, powerful face, left of the arete.

Protection 

Pads and Spotters.


Photos of Bobby's Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Mike working the moves.
Mike working the moves.
Crucial heel hook.
Crucial heel hook.

Comments on Bobby's Problem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Apr 9, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Definitely a worthwhile problem, though a bit sharp. The topout may be dirty, so a pre-brushing wouldn't hurt if you're planning to hop on this.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 14, 2010

Anyone have any beta for this problem?
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Oct 19, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

All I really remember is the sequence beginning from the sharp right hand 3/4 undercling. From there, you reach out left to a triangle hold (maybe using an intermediate), then I matched there and went up with the left hand to the obvious break above the lip. Then it's a funky match and high backstep to reach the top and walk off. I think.

I could give you the blow-by-blow if I were standing there, but from my keyboard that's the best I can do.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 20, 2010

Hey man thanks for the beta, I am stoked on this problem right now!
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Oct 21, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Check this out for some completely different beta:
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 20, 2012
rating: V7-8 7B

This problem deserves more praise than it gets. It's an obvious, natural and aesthetic line with sustained and interesting moves on quality rock to a highball finish. With a flat landing no less! The only real detraction is the sharpness of the rock and even that isn't really that bad.

Definitely one of the better hard climbs at the Blackjacks.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 1, 2012
rating: V7-8 7B

Some video of the problem (starts at 1:01):

By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V8 7B

Does anyone know if the direct line up the arete has been done? I was looking at it a few weeks ago when my GF made go rope climbing up there and it doesn't look too bad... in fact it looks sweet as hell haha.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 14, 2012

I know it has been done, it have seen it called Bobby's Arete nd I think they said it was V7(?). Climb it and let us know!
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 23, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Hopefully going to hit this up this weekend! Wheeee!