Note - A of the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The property line runs from the road where the trail near pole # 39 runs along the stream up between the Zig-zag Boulder and the Moat Boulder, up to a point just below Starship Enterprise Crag. It then runs west to the Boundary Boulder, where it then turns and runs up hill through part of the Prudential Crag.
The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Sit start on let hand jug and a right hand crimp. Make a long move to a good pocket, move you feet around and get into the business. Move left hand to a crimp and move right hand up right to a three finger crimp. from here traverse left to the quartz jug in the crack and tackle the nerve rattling topout .
Please also be careful of the broken tree, a fall from the top could give you some very serious injuries if you land on the tree.
On the backside (north) of the entrance boulder, powerful face, left of the arete.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Oct 19, 2010 rating: V77A+
All I really remember is the sequence beginning from the sharp right hand 3/4 undercling. From there, you reach out left to a triangle hold (maybe using an intermediate), then I matched there and went up with the left hand to the obvious break above the lip. Then it's a funky match and high backstep to reach the top and walk off. I think.
I could give you the blow-by-blow if I were standing there, but from my keyboard that's the best I can do.
This problem deserves more praise than it gets. It's an obvious, natural and aesthetic line with sustained and interesting moves on quality rock to a highball finish. With a flat landing no less! The only real detraction is the sharpness of the rock and even that isn't really that bad.
Definitely one of the better hard climbs at the Blackjacks.
By JamieRe From: Providence, RI Sep 13, 2012 rating: V87B
Does anyone know if the direct line up the arete has been done? I was looking at it a few weeks ago when my GF made go rope climbing up there and it doesn't look too bad... in fact it looks sweet as hell haha.