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Treasure Wall
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Bobby's Back 
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Tree Line 
Twilight Kid, The 
Twilight Time 
Workingman's Blues 

Bobby's Back 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Ron Olsen, 7/18/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,916
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2007
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Andrew Matthews finishing up Bobby's Back.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another good, short sport route. Start at the steep face between Twilight Time and Buried Treasure. Thin face moves past the first three bolts lead to easier ground above. Climb right of the second bolt for an easier line (10d); left of the second bolt for a harder line (11d). Continue up past the little pine to the anchor shared with Twilight Time.

You can TR Bobby's Back after climbing Twilight Time (10a).

Descent: lower 50' back to the start.


Location 

Take the Treasure Wall approach. Head right, up the hill, about 40' to the start of the route, about 10' right of Twilight Time.

Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks (shared with Twilight Time).



Photos of Bobby's Back Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux (photo by Phil Ashton).
At the crux (photo by Phil Ashton).
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By deb
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Fun climb even if short. Interesting crux. I think 11c would be a more accurate rating (based on leading it).

By djoseph
Sep 19, 2007

Fun little line. If you like thin slab stuff, give it a try. Climbing slightly left of the bolts, seemed like a couple 11 moves. Otherwise 10c/d. Didn't know how to rate it due to the variations. Enjoyed playing on it, though.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Rate it by the path of least resistance, which, in this case, goes straight up the bolt line. That's how routes have traditionally been rated. I would agree with the mid 5.10 rating. Fun crux.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I'm curious.
Was the fixed lost arrow towards the top of this present prior to the recent ascents and cleaning? No doubt it would have been from an ascent of the crack system just right of this climb if so, but it should have precluded that top bolt placement.

I found the route to be 5.11. I warmed up on it not knowing what it was and went left (ha ha on me). I and my partner each took falls when we scaled off or broke off a foothold or chunk of one, but the climbing is now presently pretty solid overall.

I can see the reason for the first two bolts (the second one held my fall) and the third, albeit just below a bomber stopper placement, is clipped overhead just before an insecure move (crux?), but the rest of the bolts are within inches of good gear placements. Perhaps this should have been a mixed route?

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2008

A nice little route that delivers more challenge than would appear from the ground.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2009

The climb is interesting, but like lots of crowded sports lines, I kept asking myself "is this on?" Leading it, my left arm was never more than and inch or two right of the vertical line created by bolts, but depending on what you grab with your right, the difficulty can greatly vary.

On lead I was stemmed to make the second bolt clip (pretty much right under the bolt), and then without taking a step, but just by shifting my weight on to the hold my right foot was on, I could reach the arete. I'm pretty sure that isn't how the line is intended based on the 10d rating. I would say using that arete the climb is no harder than 10b. I then tried variations on TR. Using that downward pointing flake just below the little bush/tree on the corner instead of the arete the route felt like it was about 10d, maybe even 11a (is the next hold on the right off? I could clip while holding it...). I played with going to the left of the bolts, but that was definitely harder and I gave up on that (probably at least mid 11, but I can't say since I gave up...).

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 8, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Using the right-facing edge at the crux makes this route easier than its grade, imo. And it's well within reach. Great route!

By JJR
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2012

Fun route, really thin and slabby, but I agree with Bill, if you use the right-facing ledge the grade drops significantly.