Looks ugly from the ground, but once past the opening moves and onto the face the climbing is quite nice.
This will be significantly harder and a scary lead for anyone under 5'6" or so due to reachy crux. Crux alternative moves are available, but much harder than 5.6 with ledge potential if you cannot clip the high bolt off the opening block. Bring a stick clip if you are short or devise a way to gain the extra few inches needed to reach the clip (I threw my tevas up to my partner, who then stood on them to make the clip, rather than back off or risk a ledge fall. Creative, no ?)
Clip the bolt on the block (or not) and climb to the top of the block. Unclip the first bolt (or not, if you didn't - make sense ?) and clip the second bolt (if you can). Climb the tricky face of a second block (crux, harder if shorter than 5'6" or so), then up to the main cliff face and wonderful moves on great rock. If not for the weird start, this climb would be three stars.
Begin on the obvious large block just right of Five-Five My Ass and about 20 feet right of the right side of the cliff.
9 bolts + bolted anchors.
Aug 17, 2010
Extend your runners on the 1st and 3rd bolts to avoid drag. Beware of loose rock.
From: Hampton, Virginia
Aug 17, 2011
Fun route with an awkward first bolt (I choose not to clip it) A little tricky at the 3rd bolt for the shorter climber. NO THE TREE IS NOT ON! Penalty slack for touching it 8^) A much, much better climb than Five-Five My Ass. Great for the beginning leader
|By Matt Baer|
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Had some fun with some of the moves since I was shorter but overall once your on the face its great climbing and the view from the top is awesome! Underrated route.
|By David Fontaine|
From: Durham, NC
Sep 18, 2012
I agree; there is some loose rock. The last three bolts are a bit slabby which makes this a fun route. It's an excellent first sport lead. The top anchors are very easy to work with, so there's no pressure to set up a quick TR anchor when completing the route.