|Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
Don't get smoked. A slightly overhanging, difficult start off the ground leads to more fun thin crimping and sidepulls on a near vertical face past 5 bolts and some glue to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge.
An extension of the route continues up and left (see comments below and the route description for it).
4th climb from the right end of Dirt Wall. (was 3rd from the end, now 4th with a newer climb added to the cliff)
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Dave Wachter|
Dec 12, 2008
Really, really fun. Like Little Caterpillar, it's an amazingly good route considering how short it is. Can climb this to the finishing ledge, take a nap, then continue up from the left end of the ledge to the top of Duran Duran for an exciting short addition (probably 11+ variation). Can hang draws on Duran Duran from there if you're inclined.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 31, 2009
Originally 4 bolts to the ledge, there is now a 5th bolt before the ledge if you want to do the new extention which is 8 bolts and anchors. From the left end of the ledge work up to the right end of the horizontal. A hidden pinch out right and a few nice pockets take you up the steep head wall to an anchor right of Duran Duran. TR'd previousely by Dave S and Claude, then by myself and finally bolted by Lance, I think. Grade seemed about 5.12.