Boats from Cuba
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Like a little piece of Cannon stuck to Rumney.
Unfortunately the Cannon style trad climbing is over quickly but at least it leads back to classic Rumney schist.
Typically listed an "R" rated climb but since the route finishes the same way as Millennium Falcon the scary climbing is now all bolted. I skipped the bolts and thought that in that style it deserved the "R".
Start on the ledge atop the first pitch of The Big Easy 5.7. Climb up a crack from the big pine tree on the right side of the ledge. Move up and right careful not to dislodge any loose blocks. Mantel on to the smooth slab of Millennium Falcon 5.10c. From here you can clip Millennium's bolts to the anchor. lower down to the Millennium ledge and have your partner follow and clean.
From the right side of the Big Easy ledge to the anchors of Millennium Falcon.
By S. Neoh
May 8, 2013
In its current form, is there a move where you have three or four points of contact on a BIG detached block? This climb was scary before MF was cleaned and bolted.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 9, 2013
all the loose stuff didnt seem that epic... i was pounding on everything to make sure it was solid and felt secure enough... some TV sized blocks were loose but wouldn't come down without some work...