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 ADVANCED
The Northwest Passage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Lectra Crack T 
Boar War S 
Cozened Stone S 
Double Creature Feature T 
Double D's S 
Forty Six and 2 S 
Friend Zone, The S 
Lateralus S 
Lord's Prayer, The S 
Pretty Good Face S 
Very Nice Crack T 

Boar War 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: jim shimberg 1993
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The route viewed from the alternate start on the l...

Description 

An interesting varied route that works through a slab, a roof and an airy arete.

The right most of the Passage climbs. Start from the ledge on the right side of the beginning of the Northwest Passage gully and belay from the single bolt anchor, or start lower for the newly added direct start that doesn't make it harder but adds a few draws to your rack and rope drag. Either start is slabby and technical and will deposit you at the difficult roof crux. Crimps and footwork will help you prevail. After a fun pull out of the roof (though it might be tough for shorter folks) you get to a no hand stance and look up at the finishing arete. It was covered in lichen but i cleaned off the holds you need so it climbs well presently. Fun climbing (around 5.11) on flakes and crimps puts you at the chains.

recommend

Location 

The left most route at Prudential. Look for the roof.

Protection 

15 bolts! to 2 bolt anchor if you do the extended start. I think it was 10 from the ledge.


Photos of Boar War Slideshow Add Photo
LILY UNDER THE CRUX ROOF ON bOAR wAR...
LILY UNDER THE CRUX ROOF ON bOAR wAR...

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By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Finally found a beta that makes it feel like 12a. Fun climb with varied type of climbing. Would give it 3 stars if a little bit cleaner.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2014

I really love when people are so divided about the quality of a climb that 4 people vote and none vote the same... This one has 3 star, 2 star, 1 star, and a bomb haha... the consensus is no consensus...