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BETA PHOTO: The route viewed from the alternate start on the l...
An interesting varied route that works through a slab, a roof and an airy arete.
The right most of the Passage climbs. Start from the ledge on the right side of the beginning of the Northwest Passage gully and belay from the single bolt anchor, or start lower for the newly added direct start that doesn't make it harder but adds a few draws to your rack and rope drag. Either start is slabby and technical and will deposit you at the difficult roof crux. Crimps and footwork will help you prevail. After a fun pull out of the roof (though it might be tough for shorter folks) you get to a no hand stance and look up at the finishing arete. It was covered in lichen but i cleaned off the holds you need so it climbs well presently. Fun climbing (around 5.11) on flakes and crimps puts you at the chains.
The left most route at Prudential. Look for the roof.
15 bolts! to 2 bolt anchor if you do the extended start. I think it was 10 from the ledge.
LILY UNDER THE CRUX ROOF ON bOAR wAR...
By Eric Leclerc
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Finally found a beta that makes it feel like 12a. Fun climb with varied type of climbing. Would give it 3 stars if a little bit cleaner.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2014
I really love when people are so divided about the quality of a climb that 4 people vote and none vote the same... This one has 3 star, 2 star, 1 star, and a bomb haha... the consensus is no consensus...
Apr 24, 2016
Definitely worth doing. Slab then roof then arete. What's not to like? Oh yeah. All the lichen - hopefully that'll clean up if people get on it.