Boar War  5.12a/b

257 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  jim shimberg 1993 Submitted By:  lee hansche on Nov 30, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

LILY UNDER THE CRUX ROOF ON bOAR wAR...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

An interesting varied route that works through a slab, a roof and an airy arete.

Start from the ledge on the left side of the cliff and belay from the single bolt anchor, or start lower for the newly added direct start that doesn't make it harder but adds a few draws to your rack and rope drag. Either start is slabby and technical and will deposit you at the difficult roof crux. Crimps and footwork will help you prevail. After a fun pull out of the roof (though it might be tough for shorter folks) you get to a no hand stance and look up at the finishing arete. It was covered in lichen but i cleaned off the holds you need so it climbs well presently. Fun climbing (around 5.11) on flakes and crimps puts you at the chains.

recommend

Location 

The left most route at Prudential. Look for the roof.

Protection 

15 bolts! to 2 bolt anchor if you do the extended start. I think it was 10 from the ledge.