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Bo Diddley T 
Cruising for Bulgar T 
Dreams Of Darkness T 
Dreams Of Light T 
Good Cleavage T 
Marsupial T 
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 
Sick and Wrong T 
Sugar Glider T 

Bo Diddley 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Levin, Haas, Bubb, Ruckman, Volk
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 2, 2008

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the finest thin crack pitches in Eldo and unquestionably the best pitch at this crag.

A climb with ascending difficulty and increasingly thin and sparse protection for the first 70 feet, culminating in a hard and technical crux well above small gear. While the odds of injury for a competent leader of this are not high, the excitement factor will be. The first four climbers up this without falls each solved the crux in different ways depending on height, balance and edging ability.

The large party listed for the FA is related to the history of the line, which was first seen and TR'd by Steve Levin in the 80s or 90s. In 2008, when it had still not been freed, Jason Haas and Tony Bubb went back not knowing of its history and cleaned it for a lead on the following week. This was by chance mentioned to Steve, who proposed to share the FA. All involved met as a single FA party. Steve led the route on the first attempt of the day.


Location 

This is the thin seam that can be seen just right of 'Good Cleavage.' Follow this to its end past some crystals to a good letterbox edge, then up to a tree on top above the route, Good Cleavage.


Protection 

A light rack of cams and nuts with a good selection of brass/steel and certainly at least one 2" cam for an open pod below the crux. A #5 Camalot (new style) can be placed just above the crux from a very secure stance and protects what would otherwise be significantly runout and insecure 5.10- moves up top. This is advisable since you may also be quite pumped.



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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2008

We decided to call this fantastic SoBo pitch "Bo Diddley" in remembrance of the recently-deceased rock and blues guitar great.

By climberz
Jan 19, 2010

I put in a pink tricam as my first piece in the seam. A red would also go in and possibly be better. For me this made the pitch safe enough. Also got in a nest of RPs, but for me the tricam was by far the best of the bunch. If this gear blew, you would be lucky not to deck.

Awesome climbing!