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BM Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,350
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 4, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Garrett Gillest at age 7 on the BM Route at North ...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the second bolted line left of Under the Table, and is identified by the letters "BM" on the rock just right of the route. I don't know the real name of the route, so I'm calling it "BM Route" in prefererence to "Unknown 5.9".

Locate the smooth tan slab of Under the Table, go 40' left, and spot the letters "BM" about 20' up the rock. The route starts here.

Climb up to the second bolt, move right to a hand crack, and continue past 3 more bolts to the anchor. The start can be done either left or right of the bolt line; both variations are about 5.9. Going straight up is somewhat harder.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of BM Route Slideshow Add Photo
BM Route.
BETA PHOTO: BM Route.
Near the top.  Notice the big chunk of rock that is missing on the right that the guy is liebacking in the previous photo.
Near the top. Notice the big chunk of rock that i...
Peter Dillon cranking the layback halfway up BM route.
Peter Dillon cranking the layback halfway up BM ro...
Comments on BM Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Elsasser
Nov 10, 2003

Gear Alert

This is a great route at Table. I have climbed it many of times. I always thought it was a stout 5.8. I think the anchors need to be replaced. I know one is a spinner.

By J. Elsasser
Nov 12, 2003

Richard, I posted the first comment. I hear you about time. I live near Golden (NW Denver) and don't make it up there that often. I have some bolting experience and would like to pitch in and help. I find for the cost, the Fixe rappel anchors do pretty well, but offer too much of an opportunity to top rope through. Could you add links to them and keep it still safe and cost effective? Putting up sport routes isn't cheap. The Fixe catalog has some really cool systems.

By shad O'Neel
Jan 17, 2004

A fun Table Mountain moderate. Thoughtful getting to the hand crack.

By Buff Johnson
Aug 26, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Straight up on the arete is sequential & balancy moves; I felt it was more technical than taking one side or the other. The crack to the right offers great jams to crank. After the fourth bolt, take that clean face to the right of the arete to finish out hard. Stemming & chimney out left can give you an easier time of it, I think about 5.6 -- I can also see the intended line being 5.8+, this route is unique in the variant moves you can try (that's what I like about N Table). A nice suggestion by the man who climbs with a Tigger on his butt.

By Greg
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Staying on the arete and not going left or right felt harder than 5.9. I peeled quite a few times and hung on the second bolt trying to work the problem.

By Bill C.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 14, 2009

Try to climb JUST the arete with no stemming on either side, just follow the crack line. Great jams and pretty tricky foot work. Fun route!

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I did this today and vaguely remember the flake I used a few years ago which made it much easier. What's the consensus rating now that a huge amount of rock is now missing? (Glad I wasn't there for that.) It felt about 5.10b to me; I'm 5'8".

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The last bolt before the anchors looks like it is in a block that may fall off like the pillar below it did. Beware.