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 ADVANCED
Mall Wall
Select Route:
Bluto Tastes An Olive S 
Gotta Move S 
Popeye Meets The Burrito Master S 
Rave On S 

Bluto Tastes An Olive 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Unknown, FFA: Wolfe/DeMatteo/Thompson
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,611
Submitted By: MisterE on Oct 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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First ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Erik Wolfe ...

Description 

Clip a low bolt & surmount a difficult start to fun jugs on a steep wall. Climb past an arete & through a bulge. (40 feet).


Location 

Directly to the left of "Popeye Meets the Burrito Master" on Mall Wall.


Protection 

6 bolts, fixed clip anchors



Photos of Bluto Tastes An Olive Slideshow Add Photo
Second ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Greg DeMatteo climbing
Second ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Greg DeMat...
First ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Erik Wolfe climbing
First ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Erik Wolfe ...
First ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Erik Wolfe climbing
First ascent of Bluto Tastes An Olive. Erik Wolfe ...
Comments on Bluto Tastes An Olive Add Comment
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By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route went up Wednesday and there is still some brushing to do. Eric didn't have the right tool to remove the blown bolt and will be returning soon to patch that up. Camoing the anchors is a good idea.

As for the route spot, I would have been the first to complain about another route "squeezed in" but it is a fully independent line and isn't contrived. It's a short but quality route at a grade where moderate climbers and folks looking for more warm ups will enjoy and appreciate it. There are a lack of easier routes at the Pit and I can see this one getting plenty of traffic.

I say thanks to Eric for putting in the effort and the cash on a moderate route. The Pit can certainly use more moderates instead of another .12+ project.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Dean.... better place to spend money on hardware? You mean like new and undeveloped areas? Needed bolt replacements? Scary back country crags?

Erik has done them all plus some. To me, if he (and a few other locals) felt they could get a quality line in at the Pit, then let them. As for squeeze jobs... perhaps. Erik mentioned (on a different forum so how would you know) that he felt it would actually add to the area which is ever so popular with few moderates for people to hang on. I've seen people camp all day with a top rope on Popeye. Perhaps this will give them something to try that they otherwise wouldn't have.

On a side note, nearly that entire crag has fresh anchors already and it is in the process of an anchor replacement process now. Perhaps the idea of painted anchors should be posted on that thread too? I agree, it's never to late to at least disguise impact.

Funguy, If you're going to hop on the TR turned FA bandwagon you've got a lot of typing to do. This phenomenon happens and nearly every crag in the country.

Erik, please change your route description to reflect FFA and next time you've got $50 to burn take it up with a committee first.

~Susan

By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 27, 2008

Information regarding FA/FFA has been amended to reflect history.

The route has been cleaned and the bush pruned. I will camo the anchors and clean them up this week.

Erik

Edit: The route is to the left of the "black face" mentioned above:

www.mountainproject.com/images/53/57/106285357_medium_d7b418>>>

Double edit: Camo & fill done. 10/30/08

By Richard Fernandez
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Second the warm-up quality of the route, we need more moderates at the pit. I like using the arete though, keeps it stellar! I'd go with the 5.9+ only because the top can be a bit dicey with out any beta on the low right, hard to see from above, foot. Thanks guys!

By wvoorhis
From: Knoxville, TN
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Okay route until the finish, where the bulge makes for super awkward final moves to reach the anchors.

By Christopher Parke
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun climb, with a couple of weird moves. There is an awkward rest on a ledge right before the committing move over the "olive" on the top. I would do it again.