Starts just right of Exodus. Fun, well-protected sandstone slabbing.
5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 20, 2007
This is a fun climb, but moving past the 4th bolt can be a bit confusing as you can choose two different and equally (I think) challenging routes. Going direct via a crimp and high-step seems logical, but a series of fun lie-back moves a couple of feet to the left offer a interesting way to surmount the crux. You choose. Just be sure not to go TOO far to the left. It's tempting...
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This route is awesome! Very interesting movement on quality sandstone. The bolts very thoughtfully protect the harder moves. 3-1/2 stars!!
As Andy mentions, the clear crux encounter arrives at the 4th bolt. Stay right of the 4th bolt for a single, strenuous, reachy move off of a left-hand, 2-pad crimp (5.10d). Climb larger features left of the 4th bolt for an easier variation (5.10c).
The anchor at the top of this route gets my vote as the single worst in the Gorge. It is comprised of two 1/2" wedge bolts in loose, cracked blocks. Both bolts wiggle playfully in their holes. The old-school open shuts are the least sketchy part of the anchor. UPDATE: the route now sports a beefier anchor with Mussy Hooks.
Aug 12, 2012
The anchor on this route is now top of the line. Two bolts with chains to a single mussy hook backed up by a third bolt with chains to a second mussy hook.
I agree with Matthew's view of the rating, 5.11a is a bit inflated. At the 4th bolt crux, using the left hand lay back it felt about 10c, going right of this bolt using the high step right foot smear to the very high right hand slope/chicken head felt like 10d. (Though it could easily have been labeled 10b if it were in Joshua Tree!)