Bluff Head is a super secluded undeveloped place near the head of the Bagaduce River. The area is virtually undeveloped, and has great potential for a lot of boulder problems, and a few trad single pitch lines or possibly sport lines if someone wanted to bother to bolt it.
Currently the eastern wall has excellent boulder options, and there are a series of hard boulder problems on the southern face that should be linked up with trad gear, as the consequences for falling would take you down the entire face.
Extremely vegetated, with animals living in a burrow halfway up the face.
It faces south west, and has mid day to afternoon sun, and looks over a beautiful scenic part of the Bagaduce River.
for more local detail ask the staff of the climbing wall at Maine Maritime Academy, located in Castine.
There are two potential approaches. The first is the way we went.
1) Load up canoes / kayaks, paddle up the Bagaduce from Castine, make sure you time it with the tides as tidal currents can run up to 6 knots in part of the river. Canoe up the river till you see the magnificent rock face on the northern shore, boom, you're there.
2) Drive in, the crag is near Sedgewick Maine, follow the google map directions, pull off and bushwhack through a barely existent animal path to the top of the cliff.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bluff Head:
A left facing corner that's slightly overhanging cracks and flakes with a lot of jugs. It all starts the same but as you get higher you have a few different choices for ending, with the choices getting harder from left to right. Really fun, but watch out for loose rock....[more]Browse More Classics in ME