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Blues Brothers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Kip Knapp, April 1985
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Locker on Mar 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Blues Brothers 5.10a

Description 

Starts with a shallow crack not easily protected, on beautiful, smooth rock. Hidden right facing hold on right crucial to keep it at 5.10a. Thats all the info you get!

Protection 

Small cams/nuts. Also there is a single bolt/no hanger that can be used via a wired nut. This route is not easily protected and moves from crack to unprotected face (short move). Build your own anchor and rap off a slung tree. 60m rope.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun slab climbing (mostly friction) along a seam with thin gear for pro make this a great route in a rarely visited area. Three stars out of five.
By Woody Stark
Mar 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. PG 14; well okay, maybe not quite. Take all your wee wires and puny cams. It's also some of the best granite--smooth and slippery--in the park.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

really nice rock! Fun climb out of the way and one great view from the top................
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 20, 2011

One of those routes that is light years different on the follow than on the lead. Bring lots of small stuff. We used brass and a black alien.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Mixed feelings on this one. It's a good, heady lead if you have enough thin gear but could be a disaster for someone leading at their limit. While following a crack line has virtually no actual crack climbing. I managed to get quite a bit of gear in the pitch, but not much of it was confidence inspiring. Take tiny brass and tiny stoppers, doubles in your smallest two or three microcams, a finger sized cam, and a #1 camalot sized piece. Make sure to have a smallish nut that can slide down the wire (not epoxied nut heads!) for the hangerless button head compression rivet (that hangs out far enough to see the compression fins on the shaft). The fixed LA on the direct finish was bomber on 1/19/11 (original finish goes left and up the shallow left facing dihedral with crack).
By Richard Shore
Nov 4, 2012

Placed 4 offset brassies, both of my 00's, and pretty much every other tiny cam I brought along. Technical slab/seam climbing with tiny but sufficient gear. More mentally challenging than physically difficult. Excellent rock!
By Tricamus
From: Culver City, CA
Dec 16, 2013

Great heady line. I placed all 5 sizes of the C3s on this route. Not all of them were confidence inspiring. There are chains at the top of the route to rap off, single 60m rope will get you down. Also, the button head and lost arrow are still in good shape.