BETA PHOTO: Aaron Parlier climbing out of the "Warm Up Roof" (...
The sandstone bouldering here is fantastic. With almost no approach time to speak of, a well maintained trail to walk on, and a view thatís worth a thousand words, you have everything you need to have a great bouldering session.
The picnic tables conveniently placed within a stoneís throw from the blocks adds a nice touch, and there are grills to cook up some hamburgers while you session as well. The downfall to the area is that the park is much undermanaged and it tends to get trashy. Also the local kids have spray painted the boulders here and there (although this surprisingly hasnít affected the bouldering as much as I would have expected). All and all the Bluefield boulders are a great, unique, and solitary place to session, and if you get a chance to pick up some litter while youíre there it would be greatly appreciated.
The main boulder area consists of around 10 large boulders with everything from mega features on vertical faces to overhanging roofs with nothing but finger tip crimps to pull through. The slopers here are fantastic with unreal cool-weather friction.
This bouldering area is too small for any long distance travelers to visit, but if this sounds like a reasonable distance for you (B-Burg climbers), then I would recommend the drive.
Although the local Bluefield visitors apparently do not value this area as much as climbers would, it still makes for a great, small, sandstone bouldering area. Some of the locals have spray-painted all over the boulders and like to throw water/soda bottles everywhere. I encourage the "pack it out" mindset and urge anyone to pick up a little trash as you leave. This park is wonderful, but also uncared for. Climbers have historically been the crag caretakers, so keep it up and pack it out...
Take 598 to bluefield. When you reach the crest of the mountain, look for the massive radio antenna and the rest station on the right hand side of the road that is the Virginia/West Virginia line. park and avoid the large lower trail and head uphill on the smaller walking trail. you will see a long, short, spraypainted boulder. this is the first boulder in the Main Border Boulders Area.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bluefield Boulders:
Sit Start in the deep pocket and toss up to the left to a couple prominent rail edges.Get your feet situated to Make a long dynamic move out to the slopy pinch that is the lip of the boulder. The dyno should be straight up to the lip. stick this and bump up to the top of the boulder. mantle out....[more]Browse More Classics in VA