The sandstone bouldering here is fantastic. With almost no approach time to speak of, a well maintained trail to walk on, and a view thatís worth a thousand words, you have everything you need to have a great bouldering session.
The picnic tables conveniently placed within a stoneís throw from the blocks adds a nice touch, and there are grills to cook up some hamburgers while you session as well. The downfall to the area is that the park is much undermanaged and it tends to get trashy. Also the local kids have spray painted the boulders here and there (although this surprisingly hasnít affected the bouldering as much as I would have expected). All and all the Bluefield boulders are a great, unique, and solitary place to session, and if you get a chance to pick up some litter while youíre there it would be greatly appreciated.
The main boulder area consists of around 10 large boulders with everything from mega features on vertical faces to overhanging roofs with nothing but finger tip crimps to pull through. The slopers here are fantastic with unreal cool-weather friction.
This bouldering area is too small for any long distance travelers to visit, but if this sounds like a reasonable distance for you (B-Burg climbers), then I would recommend the drive.
Although the local Bluefield visitors apparently do not value this area as much as climbers would, it still makes for a great, small, sandstone bouldering area. Some of the locals have spray-painted all over the boulders and like to throw water/soda bottles everywhere. I encourage the "pack it out" mindset and urge anyone to pick up a little trash as you leave. This park is wonderful, but also uncared for. Climbers have historically been the crag caretakers, so keep it up and pack it out...
Take 598 to bluefield. When you reach the crest of the mountain, look for the massive radio antenna and the rest station on the right hand side of the road that is the Virginia/West Virginia line. park and avoid the large lower trail and head uphill on the smaller walking trail. you will see a long, short, spraypainted boulder. this is the first boulder in the Main Border Boulders Area.
A Classic!This line starts up underneath the arete. you will be horizontal and just off the ground.Start with your hands matched on the ledge under the lip of the prow. heelhook out on a perfect heelhook ledge.Make a long lock off to a long comfortable finger rail. get feet situated and make a left hand move to the vertical rail out far on the left side.do a series of foot changes and a bump up the left hand rail. (I heel hook the right hand finger rail for the next move.. up to you)toss right h...[more]Browse More Classics in VA