Bluebeard  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Casey Hyer Season:  spring-fall Submitted By:  Spencer Weiler on Apr 19, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bluebeard as seen from the road. It tops out on th...

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Description 

If you are tired of the crowds and grease of Fucodial and Betagraph, this 3 pitch sport climb might suit you. While the approach is somewhat horrible, the position and solitude are unmatched for Logan sport climbing.

The climb ascends the dark, purplish water streak to the top of the blocky tower that is easily distinguished from the road.

The first pitch starts on the arete to the right of some loose overhanging rock. Scramble up 10 feet onto a slanting dirt ledge to start and belay.

Pitch 1: 5.11c. Climb out right to reach the hidden first bolt, then up the face(out of sight of belayer) up 5 or 6 bolts to a good ledge. One more bolt past a fun roof move on crimps gains the first set of anchors. Not really cruxy, but somewhat devious and sustained.
Pitch 2: 5.9. Climb up and slightly left on easy terrain past 7 or more bolts, ending again after passing a roof with a bolt overhead onto a fat ledge with bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10d. Balance up the slab past 3 bolts(thin), then head up right onto the textured, exposed arete to the top of the tower.
Pitches 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 could be combined(15 draws needed) easily, though both ledges make stopping convenient.

Location 

From the Lake Bonneville sign, shwack your way up the gully to the base of the wall. There is no definitive trail. Choose your preference of loose scree or thick and pointy shrubs.This is the crux of the route. The gully will take you practically to the start of the route. Sandles not recommended. 45 min.

Protection 

Bolted all the way up.10 draws is plenty. Some bolts are somewhat hidden, so keep climbing and you'll see them. Well protected.
Descent: Rap the route. One 60 meter will work easily.

Photos of Bluebeard Slideshow

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Pitch 1 belay and start.	Looking down on pitch one.	Looking up pitch 2. Annie on top of the roof.
The slabby pitch 3 up to the arete.