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 ADVANCED
Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Bluebeard 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines et al., June, 1989
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

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Description 

This is a short, exciting face climb. It is on a small formation just below The Pirate. Scramble down and traverse in from the left. Unprotected crux moves lead up to the first bolt. A good spot (tough to arrange on the exposed starting ledge) would help you if you fell here. The moves above are fun and well-protected. The climb finishes along the trail by the base of The Pirate.

Protection 

Gear for the belay at the bottom and at the top. I don't remember whether I was able to place any gear on the actual climb.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun face climbing on this; the crux is a boulder problem right at the start, which seem contrary to the "R" rating.