Blueballs is a super committing lead on very small gear for the first 40-50 feet. Most people toprope it, and it's probably a good thing because not everyone has the skills and cool head that is required to climb a hard R rated route like this. I worked it out on toprope first, then led it with one piece of gear (a purple TCU) and a few draws for the bolts at the top. I hear the TCU is bomber, but I don't wish to test it.
Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip. Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy.
Climb the face just right of Romancing the Stone (5.10c).
A few draws and small gear, I used a purple TCU in a letter box slot about half way up the face section. I hear you can get other stuff in too, such as micro wires, but I didn't see them.
|By Jeremiah Johnson|
From: Hershey PA
Mar 5, 2008
C3's work great on this route. And, there's a good C3 placement up at the top (once you're in the Romancing the Stone traverse), so you can lead this without clipping any bolts at all and still stay safe at the top.
Mar 10, 2010
I did the blue balls start today on toprope up to the romancing traverse, and it was real awesome climbing. Good reachy crimpy tricky stuff. I would say it felt easier than 11c, and it's actually in the new guide as 11b which is probly what I'd pin on it. Certainly the moves would have been harder to commit to with some questionable trad gear backing me up... maybe some day.