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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
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Blue Velvet 
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Monkey Flower 
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Blue Velvet 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Will Cottrell
Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
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This is the bolted face between Schiester and Farley. Start off the ramp leading to scheister, you can clip the first bolt before committing to the tricky opening move.

Reachy clip for 2nd bolt, then trend right and back left to keep the grade sub 11. Crux is a smear up high.

Stellar route, sustained balancy movement between knobs and edges. Not a power route at all, all balance, finesse and footwork.

The route takes 2 more pitches and tops out, but the final pitch is R. Last two pitches are seldom done.


bolted face between scheister and Farley.



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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 1, 2009

Opening moves are definitely the crux. I'm tall, so I started out high left and worked my way over to the right.

One other easier crux up higher when transitioning from the right to the left.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2010

Multiple cruxes and very sustained.

By 213blc
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Beautiful route, sustained the whole way. Found moves above 1st bolt most exciting until 2nd clip was made. Stellar knob climbing!

By Josh Cameron
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The first pitch is what this climb is known for but there is an awesomely exposed 3rd pitch that leads to the tunnel through om Harding's Chimney. Climb all of Blue Velvet to get there or to bypass the freaking scary 2nd pitch climb Harding's or Scheister.

On the 3rd pitch of those easier routes, after the slab but before the 5.5 gully, look up the improbable looking face and you'll see several bolts heading up the face above you. Well protected at the cruxes but I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt (insecure and balancy) or after it traverses around the arete near the top (5.9/10aish with pendulum potential). An awesome 3 pitch climb or a proud finish to Harding's or Scheister.