L to R R to L Alpha
This route takes a vertical line from the start of The Wisdom to the belay ledge atop P.1 of Le Toit. It combines a poorly protected 10+ lower section with a powerful bulge above the "rotten band". Start as for The Wisdom but head left up a flake (which vibrates!) into a shallow R-facing dihedral. Bomber RPs can be placed here. Climb the dihedral and trend R into the rotten band where you can bury some medium cams. Climb through the steepness, on large holds, to reach an obvious blocky undercling and excellent gear (#3.5 - #2.5 Friends and a #2 Rock). Take a deep breath and head up and right through the overlap, just left of a rounded arête, to reach a small resting ledge (crux). An incipient crack leads straight up to the bolted cave belay on Le Toit.
Take a single rack of cams from blue alien up to #3.5 friend, and a set of small nuts.